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Many vegans, especially in the wake of last December’s shuttering of the beloved Rasa Kitchen and Juice, struggle to find dependably good, nourishing dishes at the city’s mainstream restaurants, which frequently only offer one or two vegan options. In an effort to identify a few off-the-beaten-path gems in Santa Fe, we sent out three food writers in search of an all-vegan — but also so-tasty-you-didn’t-even-miss-the-cheese — lunch.

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The first time I ate flan was as a kid in Chicago’s Logan Square neighborhood. In the 1980s, Kedzie Avenue was populated by mom-and-pop Mexican restaurants selling fresh tamales, burritos as big as your head, and lovely cold custard baked in individual ramekins.