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For many Santa Feans, Pranzo Italian Grill — the casual restaurant that occupies the spot where Montezuma Avenue curves in front of Sanbusco Market Center — is a go-to spot for satisfying, unfussy meals in a comfortable setting. It’s not fine dining, but it is perfectly fine “comfort food for your famiglia,” as the menu calls it.

Thirty years ago, Santacafé opened in the historic Padre Gallegos House, a rambling approximately 150-year-old adobe hacienda with one of Santa Fe’s most beautiful courtyard patios. The house was built by a defrocked priest who went on to represent Santa Fe ...