Last week at the farmers market, I picked up eggs without much of a plan for them aside from breakfast. Then as the weekend approached, I had half-a-dozen eggs, fresh goat cheese and a whole bunch of asparagus. I found the final bag of last year’s green chile in the freezer, and before I knew it, brunchy dreams were starting to form, including thoughts of a flaky, crusted quiche and all kinds of summer fruit. And herein lies just one of the many reasons quiche is such a perfect food for any time of day — when served with a simple green salad or fresh fruit, you can’t imagine wanting anything else. It’s a great way to keep things in the kitchen both simple and delicious.

From a cooking perspective, there are many ways and vessels you can use to cook a quiche. I am going to focus on what I think will be the most accessible method, using a standard 9-inch tart pan (where the bottom separates from the rim), a pie pan or a 9-inch springform pan. This is not a “mile high” type of quiche you might order at your favorite French cafe. And guess what? It’s OK. There is a time when a thick quiche is just divine and a time when you have a half-dozen eggs and the ratio of less egg and more crust tastes like its own version of perfection. However, if you have a quiche pan or a springform pan, you could double the recipe, building the crust higher and filling it with more egg mixture and cooking it longer.

Let’s quickly talk about the crust. Here we are making a shortcrust pastry, which is similar to a flaky pie dough but is fortified with egg yolk, making it more forgiving, easier to work with and sturdier in the pan for holding a considerable amount of filling.

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Marianne Sundquist is a chef and writer who in 2020 co-founded Stokli, an online general store. Find her on Instagram @chefmariannesundquist and email her at marianne@stokli.com.

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