This high desert marinade uses soy sauce instead of salt for umami flavor. It’s good for vegetables as well as meat.

This week, I’m writing from a cabin in northern Wisconsin where we are visiting family. This is part of the country where the strawberry and blueberry patches are bursting with fruit and where jam and pie recipes are passed between neighbors in a way that seems to avoid the movement of time.

In the past couple of days, I’ve seen a bald eagle fishing for its dinner and heard the loon’s call echo over the lake after a storm. Most noticeably, I’ve noticed the abundance of rain and the lush green of the woods. The trees are considerably less dense due to a tornado that hit five years ago, but for a desert dweller, it’s still a sight to see.

I couldn’t help but notice the differences between here and home, thinking about my lavender bushes and how it was only when I stopped watering them that they began to thrive. I think this is why the food of the Southwest has captivated me for so long.

Marianne Sundquist is a chef and writer who in 2020 co-founded Stokli, an online general store. Find her on Instagram @chefmariannesundquist, and email her at marianne@stokli.com.

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