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The New Mexican's Weekly Magazine of Arts, Entertainment & Culture Wednesday, July 23, 2014

Restaurant Review – Scenes from a malt: Shake Foundation

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Posted: Friday, March 7, 2014 5:00 am | Updated: 12:40 pm, Tue Mar 11, 2014.

Brian Knox’s Shake Foundation is a welcome throwback to the days before soda trumped malts and shakes in the hamburger-fries-drink equation. Shake Foundation does offer sodas as well as iced tea, a tad-tangy ginger lemon- ade, and espresso alternatives. But order a shake or a root-beer float, both so thick you’ll collapse your straw trying to suck them up, and you’ll be reminded just how nicely ice cream complements a good burger and fries. It’s a way to enjoy dessert both during and after your meal.

These aren’t the syrupy shakes of the sort found at the fast-food chains, made from a mix and dispensed from a machine. They’re all about the ice cream. If the crowd’s not too big, you can peer in one of the windows and watch the frozen foundation of your shake being scooped out of its container. That ice cream, from Taos Cow, is excellent — smooth and wonderfully textured, with a satisfying level of sweetness. There are vanilla and chocolate varieties to satisfy traditionalists as well as shakes for those looking for something more exotic. When was the last time you had a lavender shake? We were disappointed only when a flavor advertised on a few visits — salted caramel — wasn’t available. Topped with a swirl of whipped cream, the shakes require periodic stirring. Don’t forget to get a spoon.

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