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Restaurant Review — Almost-midnight specials: Elevation Bistro

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Posted: Friday, March 21, 2014 5:00 am | Updated: 10:21 am, Fri Mar 21, 2014.

A step up and far back from the sidewalk, Elevation Bistro might be invisible to passers-by if it weren’t for a sign announcing its hours. Hung hip high on a low wrought-iron fence that fronts the place, the glossy new banner says “the El” is open until 11 p.m. seven days a week, a late hour for this sleepy, retiring town. True, the location’s previous occupant, the Atomic Grill, was open later, but we’ll take what we can get. Elevation has burgers and baby-back ribs, as the Atomic did. Improvements to the long covered patio are underway. But real change is documented on a folding chalkboard near the sidewalk, where the day’s specials are written in a crowded script.

The place looks much the same inside. There’s a bar facing a wall hung with a pair of flat-screen TVs and a counter facing the modest kitchen. There’s not a pizza on the menu, so the colorfully tiled wood-burning pizza oven is now used for storage. The menu is crowded with what passes for bistro food in our inclusive scene: a few modest salads, a truffle-and-brioche grilled-cheese “loaf,” chile cheese fries, a ciabatta B.L.T., blue-corn chicken enchiladas, and French onion soup.

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