- Check, please
Dinner for two at Elevation Bistro:
Warm spinach salad $ 9.00
Stuffed poblano chile
in mango-chile sauce $ 15.00
Grilled pork chop $ 18.00
Glass, Cavit pinot grigio $ 6.00
Poached pear in chocolate $ 8.00
Mango crème brûlée $ 6.00
TOTAL $ 62.00
(before tax and tip)
Lunch for two, another visit:
Cup, carrot-ginger soup $ 3.00
Cup, French onion soup $ 4.00
Oyster po’ boy $ 9.00
Grilled chicken $ 16.00
TOTAL $ 32.00
(before tax and tip)
- The Short Order
Elevation Bistro, occupying the site of the old Atomic Grill, doesn’t stay open as late as the former tenant did, but it does serve until 11 p.m. seven nights a week. It offers a good selection of late-night food — burgers, pork sliders, huevos rancheros, and the like. The kitchen’s best work, however, comes in entree specials that take expected fare like grilled pork chops and chicken breasts, and using innovative sides and complex sauces, turns them into something unexpected. The place needs to perfect a few dishes, like the French onion soup, but overall it does a good job with nearly everything that comes from the small open kitchen. The wine list needs work, but the local tap brews are good for washing down almost anything. Recommended: roasted coconut-milk mussels, warm spinach salad, roasted garlic bulb, special pork chop with fig purée, and grilled chicken breast special with polenta cakes.
- 3 CHILES
Ratings range from 0 to 4 chiles, including half chiles.
This reflects the reviewer’s experience with regard to food and drink, atmosphere, service, and value.
Posted: Friday, March 21, 2014 5:00 am
Updated: 10:21 am, Fri Mar 21, 2014.
A step up and far back from the sidewalk, Elevation Bistro might be invisible to passers-by if it weren’t for a sign announcing its hours. Hung hip high on a low wrought-iron fence that fronts the place, the glossy new banner says “the El” is open until 11 p.m. seven days a week, a late hour for this sleepy, retiring town. True, the location’s previous occupant, the Atomic Grill, was open later, but we’ll take what we can get. Elevation has burgers and baby-back ribs, as the Atomic did. Improvements to the long covered patio are underway. But real change is documented on a folding chalkboard near the sidewalk, where the day’s specials are written in a crowded script.
The place looks much the same inside. There’s a bar facing a wall hung with a pair of flat-screen TVs and a counter facing the modest kitchen. There’s not a pizza on the menu, so the colorfully tiled wood-burning pizza oven is now used for storage. The menu is crowded with what passes for bistro food in our inclusive scene: a few modest salads, a truffle-and-brioche grilled-cheese “loaf,” chile cheese fries, a ciabatta B.L.T., blue-corn chicken enchiladas, and French onion soup.
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Friday, March 21, 2014 5:00 am.
Updated: 10:21 am.