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A singular Wrede: Joseph’s of Santa Fe

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Posted: Friday, January 3, 2014 5:00 am

Reviewing a restaurant run by chef Joseph Wrede is a little like writing about a Twilight movie. I can go into detail about what succeeds and what fails. But Wrede has had a dedicated following since he was helming kitchens in Taos, and every night I’ve visited his new restaurant on the corner of Agua Fria and Market streets, the tiny, tastefully decorated dining room has been packed to the hilt with enthusiastic diners. Nothing I say is going to change anyone’s mind.

Don’t get me wrong. Much of what comes out of the kitchen here is quite good — and far better than any popular teen vampire franchise, though there’s plenty you’ll want to sink your teeth into. Service is quick, friendly, and utterly, consistently professional. Overall, the menu is thoughtful and creative. Some dishes soar, but when one fails — mostly because of poor execution — it’s all the more disappointing.

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