The Red River Valley brings to mind an old country song: "Down in the valley, valley so low, hang your head over, hear the wind blow." For me it also evokes memories of childhood vacations in Northern New Mexico to escape Texas' summer heat.
Back in the 1960s and 1970s, my father typically loaded my younger sister and me in the car and pointed it northwest from our Central Texas home. Red River, N.M., was a stopping point and sometimes our final destination.
Although I haven't been to Red River in years, I found it largely unchanged. Sure, Main Street is a bit wider — with sidewalks and street lamps. And there's a spiffy new convention center. But the small-town, mountain ambience remains. As does the Alpine Lodge, at which we often stayed. This trip, I opted for the WWII-vintage Deer Lodge, owned and managed by John Tillery, because of its pet-friendly policy, convenient location and affordable price.
Still in operation is the Black Mountain Playhouse — a no-alcohol-allowed place, not for dramatic presentations, but just for kids.Red River has always been kid-friendly. But it offers adult entertainment, too. Interspersed with lodges and condos, lively bars and restaurants with even livelier "live" music line Main Street. The Bull O' the Woods, Texas Red's, and the Motherlode Saloon are just a few downtown venues. A few blocks away, try breakfast at The Hole Thing. Main Street also is home to shops selling outdoor gear, souvenirs and antiques, such as Donna Greer's The Knot Hole, former site of the original Red River post office.
My visit coincided with the 20th Mardi Gras in the Mountains — an annual event offering locals, visiting skiers and other sightseers a load of entertainment in the somewhat bleak tourist season between the holidays and spring break.
There's nothing bleak about the town's celebrations, however. Red River residents and visitors know how to party.
The weeklong event included "balls" sponsored by volunteer groups with names such as Motley Krewe and Krewe de Lush. The local krewe members work hard to host the parties and parades — including a downtown extravaganza billed as "The World's Smallest, but MOST FUN Mardi Gras Main Street Parade."
All in a day's activities are a children's Mardi Gras bead toss and Gator Plunge at the Red River Ski Area. The bead toss involves young, often costumed kids trying to toss strings of colored beads into the mouth of a wooden cut-out of a jester. The Gator Plunge is a slippery ride down a small slope for youngsters wrapped in giant green garbage bags. Local ingenuity at its best!
For the grown-ups, the day ends with crawfish boils, costume balls, a cocktail-mixing contest and bands, including Soul Kitchen, imported from Southern Louisiana.
During snow season, the Red River Ski Area and Enchanted Forest Ski Area offer Alpine and Nordic skiing as well as snowboarding, snowshoeing and snowmobiling.
Red River's spring break celebration gives college students and others a last shot at hitting the slopes. Called "Beach Week," this year's event is March 12-19. It will feature a torch-light parade with fireworks, a children's glowstick parade and a moonlight ski tour. At an elevation of 8,750 feet, Red River's ski season often lasts throughout much of March.
As much as I enjoyed Mardi Gras in the Mountains, my favorite months in Red River will remain May through October. Activities include horseback riding, bicycling, camping, hiking, fishing and my favorite, porch sitting while enjoying the mountain views and fresh air.
The Memorial Day Rally brings hundreds of motorcycles to town for a blow-out to begin the summer season. Other events in the snow-free months include Blues and Brews in June, a music festival in August, followed by autumn's Aspencade and Oktoberfest.
Winter, spring, summer or fall, Red River is a welcoming, fun-filled destination for kids and grown-ups alike.
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