Last week I provided a bird's-eye view of Telluride, the snowy Sangri-La tucked away in the remote and mighty San Juan Mountains of southwestern Colorado. Join me now as we delve deeper into its skiing and snowboarding elements, and dish up details about visiting this alpine gem.

As noted last week, Telluride has vast expanses of beginner and intermediate slopes, including an entire mountain and long chairlift (the Sunshine Express) devoted to novices where they can ski untroubled by speed demons.

But it is in its advanced, expert and extreme terrain that really makes "To-Hell-You-Ride" stand out. In fact, over the past three years, the resort has opened a large above-treeline bowl (Revelation), served by its own high-speed quad chair and dropped the rope on formerly out-of-bounds chutes, couloirs and bowls off Gold Hill and in Prospect Basin, including Black Iron Bowl. In fact, you can now hike to and ski off the summit of Palmyra Peak, elevation 13,320 feet. (As this was written, however, many of these slopes needed more snow to open.)

There is stuff I would tremble to approach including some that require mandatory airs over big drops. If you don't know exactly where you're headed you can get cliffed out and have to hike back up. That happened to me when, in low light, I skied into a V-shaped declivity on relatively tame Gold Hill No. 1. Fortunately, I pulled up before descending too far and had a relatively easy climb and traverse to skirt the rocks and drops under me. If possible, study runs from below first.

This season, the U.S. Forest Service also is allowing entry into formerly closed basins from gates on Telluride's upper slopes, such as Bear Creek (gate is at top of Revelation Chair). These areas are not patrolled or controlled, and require people entering to be familiar with backcountry route-finding and avalanche awareness, and to be in possession of the proper gear (beacons, shovels, etc.). Never ski them alone. People have died in this terrain in the past, so know before you go!

But, not all the hike-to terrain is totally hairball. A five-minute walk up the ridge above the Prospect Express lift terminus separates you from 95 percent of all the skiers on the mountain and even a week after a storm, beginning experts can find pow stashes on runs like Crystal and La Rosa, particularly in the trees flanking their lower edges. And, the hike-to open faces dropping off Bald Mountain (accessed via Lift 12 and a surface lift) will put huge grins on the faces of even strong intermediates.

Did I say big? Telluride feels huge (2,000 acres versus Taos at 1,200) and would take years to explore all its nooks and crannies.

For those that prefer a slower pace and gliding along quiet Nordic trails, Telluride is loaded with options. There is a network of trails at mid-elevation on the mountain that offers excellent conditions when slopes in the valley are baked. A lift ticket is required. Another trail runs through town and parallel to the lovely San Miguel River, and yet another set of trails (with prepared tracks) winds about the valley floor from the community's Nordic Center on the west edge of town. Or, like my intrepid wife, Kitty, you can slog up the spectacular Bear Canyon Trail to a magnificent waterfall found about three hours in, and do an about-face and head back into town. Or, you can go even further afield, if you're willing to drive, and tackle some serious backcountry outings that ring this stupendous valley.

If You Go

Staying there: There's a large range of accommodations — including condominiums, homes and hotels — in town and the newer Mountain Village. In general, cheap rooms don't exist here. In town, toward the high end of the price scale is the Columbia (some March dates are still available at $365 per night). Located just 65 steps from the gondola and 20 more to the Oak Street Chair, it has one of the best restaurants in the valley. The crab cakes and duck with sweet potatoes and chopped artichokes are divine. Your room includes a free, healthy and delicious buffet. The staff is very friendly and the amenities will have you hoping you get snowed in (though it lacks a hot tub).

Modestly priced options include the Hotel Telluride, with some rooms at $145 and $165 in March; the classic New Sheridan (recently remodeled) at $200; the Mountainside Inn (only 200 yards from the Coonskin Chair) at $149 beginning March 23; and the Cimarron Lodge (next to the Coonskin Chair), now running $190 and dropping to $158 on March 23. Cheaper options are found in Ridgeway (about 45 minutes away) and Ouray (about an hour away), both over the modest pass called Dallas Divide; or in Dolores, about an hour and a half away over sometimes dicey Lizard Head Pass.

Eating: On the mountain itself, if you're feeling flush, try the unique Alpino Vino. The Swiss-style stone and timber outpost on See Forever run at 11,966 feet altitude offers, for lunch only, gourmet sandwiches and soups, along with a tremendous wine selection. In town, there is a fine little Thai restaurant called Siam, a homey Mexican place with killer ribs called The Llama, and lots of other moderate-to-expensive choices. Dining is generally more expensive in the Mountain Village.

Rental equipment: The resort operates seven Telluride Sports shops around the valley that can provide all rental gear needed. A nice touch: You can exchange all rental gear at any other shop if you don't like something.

Other activities: Winter options include snowshoeing, ice skating (free on the town rink), heli-skiing (not free!), snowmobiling, dog sledding, sleigh rides, horseback riding, children's outdoor programs, free on-mountain ski tours, guided tours of the town's historic district and fishing.

Further information: resort reservations — 800/778-8581; general information — 970/728-6900; ski & snowboard school — 970/728-7507; nursery — 970/728-7531; snow conditions — 970/728-7425 or www.tellurideskiresort.com

Daniel Gibson can be reached at dbgibson@newmexico.com