A battered sign in Yiddish hangs near portraits of rabbis on a gleaming white-tile wall. Jewish memorial yahrzeit candles occupy a high shelf. The chalkboard menu touts soul-warming comfort foods: whitefish salad and chopped liver, schmaltz herring and lox, rugelach and halvah.
Shelsky’s of Brooklyn looks like a classic New York “appetizing” shop, where Eastern European Jewish specialties have been sold for generations. Except it’s three years old. And it’s run by a wisecracking 30-something former chef whose right arm bears a pig tattoo. And its luscious house-cured salmon can come in such palate-popping flavors as Szechuan Kung Pao or Jamaican Jerk.