Infectious confections line Santa Fe's Chocolate Trail
Santa Fe's renown chocolate trail is dotted with artisan shops that satisfy the sweet tooth

Jill Koenigsdorf | For The New Mexican
Posted: Tuesday, February 08, 2011
- 2/9/11
     
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Any town that has four world-class chocolate shops in a 5-mile radius is my kind of town. Santa Fe is home to the infamous Chocolate Trail, a cocoa-dusted route that connects four esteemed purveyors of this fine food of the gods. Incredible as it sounds, there are actually some people who eat or give chocolates only on holidays — but now that science has informed us chocolate is chock full of health-giving flavonoids and antioxidants, we can all enjoy some guilt-free trailblazing.

Todos Santos

Entering Hayward Simoneaux's 11-year-old Todos Santos is like stepping into a chocolate-dappled wonderland. The eyes roam from folk-art Pez dispensers depicting Ganesh and Wonder Woman to a parade of giant lollipops, and then to a case filled with antique chocolate molds in the shape of a crayfish, a skull and even a revolver.

Simoneaux is a New Orleans transplant who became interested in making chocolate in part because he was collecting old chocolate molds he wanted to put to use. He puts much creativity and care into the presentation of his wares, and you will find delectable chocolates tucked inside anything from miniature Mexican wrestler masks, to containers made from recycled telephone keys, to little boxes that look like ancient books.

And what's inside the pretty packages transports the taste buds to chocolate nirvana. His truffles are perfumed with rare pairings like tarragon and candied grapefruit peel, or hickory-smoked sea salt. And the pumpkin-seed toffee is to die for.

His chocolate milagros, costing between $12 and $30, are coated in edible silver or gold and are works of art. The shop's pricing ranges from $1.50 for a playful foil-covered chocolate ring to $125 for a majestic tower.

Elegance meets fun in this festive shop.

Kakawa Chocolate House

What do Marie Antoinette, Thomas Jefferson and Aztec warriors have in common? They all drank elixirs made from chocolate. Peter Wolf, owner of the 5-year-old Kakawa Chocolate House, is doing his best to replicate the same concoctions revered throughout history — when chocolate was for kings and cocoa was so precious it was used as a currency.

But you won't find anything even remotely resembling Swiss Miss. What you will find is thick, exotic brews flavored with ingredients such as roses, nuts, ancho chile, hibiscus and musk. The drinks are $3.50 for 3 ounces or $6.50 for
6 ounces.

The chocolatiers use mostly organic ingredients, sweeten with agave or honey and often substitute oat or almond milk for dairy. For Valentine's Day, they offer The Love Potion, a sensuous concoction that uses an herb called damiana, known for its aphrodisiac properties. And if these rich beverages of the ancients still haven't fully satisfied your yen for chocolate, don't leave before trying one of the pomegranate or lavender truffles ($3 each).

The chocolatiers at Kakawa are passionate about these creations, so much so that chocolate expert Ariana Rossi has the DNA of chocolate tattooed on her arm.

C.G. Higgins Confections

Over the last 17 years, owner Chuck Higgins routinely has sold about 12,000 caramel apples during the two weeks of the state fair — a feat that requires about two tons of caramel. Knowing that should instill confidence that this man knows his sweets. And if this isn't enough, C.G. Higgins is the official candymaker for Santa Fe's 400th anniversary. His Chile Caramel Corn and Chile Pecan Brittle each took home first place at the renowned Fiery Foods show in Albuquerque.

Higgins offers a different take on truffles, using high-quality Guittard chocolate as the base, but omitting the hot cream often found in the chocolate ganache. That gives the treats a longer shelf life.

The center of his truffles — which cost $3 each — has a wonderful fudgy texture, and the truffles come in tempting flavors like Blackberry Balsamic, Cardamom Raspberry or Jalapeño Lime. And what would Valentine's Day be without chocolate-dipped strawberries? Higgins is already taking orders for these sexy treats, which are made on-site that very day. They sell for
$3.50 per delight, and six for $20.

If it's fudge you desire, you've come to the right place. Black Forest Cherry, Chocolate Pecan, Raspberry Chipolata, or tried-and-true Maple Nut are all available for $17 per pound. Patrons can also enjoy happy hour in the cozy cafe, with specially priced sipping chocolates and espressos available from 4 to 6 p.m.

The Chocolate Smith

Jeff and Kari Keenan, owners of this 9-year-old confectionery, must know that once customers taste their chocolates, they will be hooked. The Keenans have copious amounts of samples on every flat surface. The aroma of chocolate fills the air, coming from the open kitchen that shares the sales area. Customers can watch the chocolates being made and see the signature pâtés being cut on the marble slabs.

These yummy pâtés are a dense, firm ganache covered in Dutch cheese wax, which makes them perfect for travelers. The Chocolate Smith uses local and organic ingredients whenever possible. The shop's barks are wildly popular, especially the White Chocolate Lemon Lavender or the Green Chile Pistachio varieties, which cost $8 per quarter-pound.

You can custom-make an assortment for $29.50 a pound. Were I to do this, it would definitely include the sake-soaked, chocolate-covered ginger; the chocolate-dipped apricots; and the succulent Don Juan Pecan Italian soft-style caramels.

There are many grab-and-go gifts available for under $10. You can also go for the whimsical Day of the Dead tin gift boxes, which cost $24.95.

Stops along the chocolate trail

Todos Santos

At a glance:
A shop where elegance meets fun.
Location: In the Sena Plaza Courtyard, 125 E. Palace Ave., Suite 31.
Hours: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday to Saturday; open Sunday “by chance.”
Contact: 982-3855

Kakawa Chocolate House

At a glance:
A place where chocolatey beverages reign.
Location: 1050 Paseo de Peralta
Hours: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Friday and Saturday; noon to 6 p.m. Sunday.
Contact: 982-0388

C.G. Higgins Confections

At a glance:
Fudge and truffles galore
Location: 847 Ninita St., at the intersection of St. Francis Drive
Hours: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday to Saturday.
Contact: 820-1315

The Chocolatesmith

At a glance:
Appetizing aromas and unique chocolate-bark varieties
Location: 851A Cerrillos Road, just south of Whole Foods.
Hours: 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Monday to Saturday; noon to 5 p.m. Sunday.
Contact: 473-2111





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