When it comes to down-home fare, Zia is a reliable bet.You know when you go to a place to eat and the food is pretty good, so you go again? This time, however, it's mediocre. You then end up going a third time, and, well, it's just there. It's comfortable. Even though you know there's chance it won't be so great, you go again ... and again?

For some reason, this is Zia Diner for me.

Zia Diner has an open kitchen. This is almost always an interesting idea gone awry. It's too easy to let a kitchen get dirty. The cooks can use unsanitary methods. There are some things you just don't want to see when it comes to what you're eating. In most cases, I'm not a fan of open kitchens, but what I saw of Zia's was pretty clean.

Zia boasts about being that eclectic diner we all love. Who doesn't like the thought of comfort food? It's ... comfortable. Things like mac 'n' cheese, chicken-fried steak, etc. Of course, at Zia you can also find liver and onions, sweet-potato fries and fish and chips. It's nice to see comfort food updated. Though I didn't see any mac 'n' cheese on the menu, I did see a quiche-like asiago pie, a fair assortment of salads and even some Italianesque items (yeah, you can get pizza). The menu hasn't changed in a while.

For me, I have a hard time not ordering fish and chips when it's available. Don't ask why. I'd like to give an enchanting story of how it was a staple street food for me when I was in culinary school back in London, but it wasn't. Maybe it's because I can't say no to what is likely the least healthy thing you can possibly order. Maybe I think fried fish, french fries and tartar sauce are a good match.

The thing is, I keep getting it.

So, having ordered the fish and chips, I sat back and waited with my coffee milkshake (it's a good thing I'm ignorant enough to think all the exercise I'm doing makes up for this, because that's doubtful).

The milkshake was good, really good. Even though I couldn't get through more than half of it.

Our server was friendly, cracking a joke or two, and actually checking on us more than twice the whole meal. Deserving of at least 20 percent.

It didn't take too long for our food to arrive. Most of the plates were salads, though, and I was disappointed to find that the tuna on one friend's Nicoise was cold and a little overcooked. Which leads me to believe the salads sat, probably under a heat lamp, waiting for the rest of the orders. But other than that, they looked fresh and crisp.

On first inspection, I was happy with my plate of fried goodness: crispy fish, a heap of fries, slaw and tartar sauce. It didn't look like they used a beer batter like a lot of places do. The slaw was mostly red cabbage.

Even before trying it, I grabbed the lemon and malt vinegar and went to war on this stuff.

The fish wasn't bad. After a few bites I found myself going only for the fish and leaving the fried batter to sit. I was happy to find that my slaw wasn't dry and crunchy. Coleslaw tastes good when it's full of mayo and other stuff. It's even better when it sits a night or two. People who think using only vinegar makes for good slaw aren't comfort-food practitioners. The point of it all is that it isn't exactly healthy for you.

Finishing up, I think I came to the conclusion that it was a pretty tasty meal — not the best comfort food I've ever had, but it was well-made.

It tasted ... tasty. I was content. And was surely sated. Though a salad would have done me better, but who wants that? I got to try other people's anyway.

Zerach Wieder, 17, has an associate's degree in culinary arts from Santa Fe Community College. You can reach him at zerock123@hotmail.com.