Gazing out from the overlook trail at Villanueva State Park, one can see the Pecos River sparkling in the sunlight as it meanders through the scenic valley below.
It's a short but steep climb to the top of the hill overlooking this tidy little state park, but the rewards are spectacular views of the surrounding mountains and countryside.
The state park, about 60 miles east of Santa Fe, has long been a draw for locals, but others are also finding their way down into this secluded, picturesque valley along the Pecos River.
During a recent midweek visit, a French tourist and a Wyoming retiree were hiking along the park's popular overlook trail, while a couple of local fishermen cleaned their catch at the bank of the river.
There's a reason Villanueva State Park has long been known as a locals park, and that's in part because it is — it was created back in 1967 with land donated by the San Miguel del Bado Land Grant Board of Trustees.
"This is the only state park I know of initially created by a land grant board of trustees," said Malcolm Ebright, director of the Center for Land Grant Studies of Guadalupita, in a 2009 report to the state regarding the park.
The report provides a fascinating historical perspective of how the park was born during a tumultuous time in the state's land grant history. It notes that the land-grant trustees not only transferred 67 acres — including 4,800 feet of riverfront access to the park — but also agreed to open to the public an additional 3.5 miles of the Pecos River for fishing and other recreational purposes.
The nearby village of Villanueva, where most of the land-grant members lived at the time, was expected to benefit from the increased commerce, the report notes.
Visitors to the village may want to drive up to the top of the hill overlooking the town to see a grotto containing santos and other religious items. The village boasts a beautiful church constructed of local rock back in 1830, and a stop at the village mercantile is a must for those who cherish mom-and-pop stores.
The park is just a few miles down the road from Villanueva and has proven to be very popular.
"The locals love it here on weekends and especially on Easter Sunday," says Ramon Gallegos Jr., a 25-year New Mexico State Parks veteran and Villanueva's acting manager. "But during midweek, it's peaceful and a great place to come relax and enjoy the scenery."
The park spans about 1,600 acres, with a campground featuring 33 sites, 12 of which provide electricity. There's a bathhouse with showers and a modern playground for the kids.
The river is regularly stocked from fall through spring. Swimming and wading become the favored activities during the summer months.
A visitor center features brochures, pamphlets and informative displays.
Visitors will find numerous appealing campsites nestled among shade trees along river, while newly rehabilitated camping shelters atop a hill overlook the lower campground.
An iron bridge spanning the river leads hikers to a 2.5-mile loop trail that heads up to the ravine overlooking the campground and river below.
Upon first heading upstream on the trail, hikers will encounter a small butte jutting out over the river, where the remains of rock walls can be seen. Native Americans and later Spanish settlers both apparently made good use of this spot — and hikers can, too.
The trail then switches back and begins a short but steep climb to the top of the overlook, where visitors will find several rustic picnic shelters and an observation deck.
This is a superb spot to relax and enjoy a couple of cold beverages. Visitors need to pack out what they bring in, and well-behaved, leashed pets are welcome.
Hikers can then continue their hike along the ridge line and return to the bottom just downstream of the bridge.
Gallegos notes that the river is popular among kayakers and canoeists during years of ample spring runoff. One can take a 19-mile, daylong float through rugged, remote canyon lands to a take-out at U.S. 84 at Tecolotito.
The river runs primarily through national forest land starting a couple of miles downstream of the state park.
Unfortunately, the snowmelt forecast for this year is poor, so river flows may be low. Equally disturbing is the fire threat, which has forced parks such as Villanueva to prohibit open fires.
"We're not allowing anything but propane right now," Gallegos said.
With spring descending on the valley, visitors will find the wildflowers in bloom, trees budding and the fish biting at one of New Mexico's more secluded getaways.
Karl F. Moffatt is a longtime New Mexico journalist and avid outdoorsman who can be contacted through his blog at www.outdoorsnewmexico.com.
IF YOU GO
From Santa Fe, take Interstate 25 east toward Las Vegas, N.M., take
Exit 323 and follow N.M. 3 to the outskirts of Villanueva. Note the sign
at the intersection with County Road B 28A, which leads down to
Villanueva State Park. Beer is available on the way at El Pueblo.
Groceries and fishing supplies can be purchased at the General Store in
Villanueva. A sit-down meal is available at the landmark La Risa Cafe in
Ribera.