The Bobcat Bite — a red-meat, family-owned, 55-year-old cafe on Old Las Vegas Highway — inspired George Motz's unexpected career as a hamburger expert.

His book, Hamburger America, about his favorite 100 burger joints, follows his 2005 documentary of the same name about eight family-owned roadside stands.

The book is in its third printing with a revised edition, with 50 more cafes, planned for 2010.

Motz, a filmmaker and author, said he originally set out to do a piece for the Food Network about the Bobcat Bite about seven years ago when he was in Tesuque to visit his father-in-law, Don Benjamin.

"I was only going to shoot the Bobcat," he said. "That was it. But when I got to talking to (owners) John and Bonnie Eckre, I looked at my wife, and I said, 'We've got something much bigger than a small piece for the Food Network.' "

Motz, 40, who lives in Brooklyn, N.Y., was at the Bobcat Bite on Friday to sign copies of his book on sale by Collected Works for $21.95 and sample the prized green-chile cheeseburger.

Another Motz favorite is the Owl Cafe in San Antonio, N.M., just off Interstate 25 on the edge of the Jornada del Muerto. But that's it for New Mexico. "I'm sure there are other burgers out there in New Mexico that are fantastic, but I haven't found them yet," he said.

Nine of Motz's favorite burgers are in Texas, mostly on the state's east side plus three in Austin. Asked for an example, he recalled the jalapeño cheeseburger at Christian's Tailgate in Houston.

As for New Mexico's other neighboring states, Motz found nothing in Arizona and only one place in Colorado — Bud's Bar in Sedalia, southwest of Denver.

Others include Johnnie's Grill in El Reno, Okla.; Northgate Soda Shop in Greenville, S.C.; Dirty Martin's Place in Austin; Mr. Bartley's Burger Cottage in Cambridge, Mass.; the Apple Pan in Los Angeles; and the Corner Bistro in New York City. He said he's already found about half of the extra 50 cafes he needs for his revised edition.

Motz's burger criteria calls for having one on the menu for at least 20 years and using fresh, not frozen, ground beef. "The Bobcat is only one that uses naturally raised, hormone-free meat," he said. "They really have taken it to a whole new level."

John Eckre said he buys whole boneless chuck and sirloin from the Pinnacle Meat Co. and grinds it fresh daily. The former trading post and gun shop along the original route of old Route 66 was opened as a restaurant in 1953 by Mitzi Panzer, the daughter of Rene Clayton, owner of the Bobcat Ranch.

Since then, it has been run by Don and Millie Cowell, Don and Shelba Surls, and Bob and Judy Amos, who turned it over to the Eckres in 2001.

"Many people ask how our name was derived," according to a history of the Bobcat Bite on its menu. "Years ago before I-25 was built, bobcats came down from the hills and were given treats at the back door at what was one of the few local dining spots that were friendly to bobcats at that time."

Today, a long line of people is often waiting for seats at the cafe on the Old Las Vegas Highway, 4 1/2 miles south of the intersection of the highway, Old Pecos Trail and Rodeo Road. Inside the pink facade are about 26 seats, with another dozen on the covered patio. The interior is decorated with photographs of bobcats.

Choices range from a rib-eye steak dinner ($21.55) to a basic hamburger ($6.85), plus sides like green chile (90 cents) and grilled jalapeño peppers ($1.10). Hours are 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday. Bonnie Eckre waits tables, prepares food and is general manager. John Eckre, a former building contractor, is the cook.

Motz dedicated his book to his vegetarian wife, Casey Benjamin. But he said she decided to take up meat eating a month ago.

"She fell off the wagon," he said. "As a bunch of carnivores, we're all real happy about that."

Contact Tom Sharpe at 986-3080 or tsharpe@sfnewmexican.com.