It's near noon on a delightfully warm and sunny midwinter's day, and the steaming waters and impressive view at the Spence Hot Spring are soothing one man's worries away.

"It doesn't get much better than this," said Bob of Albuquerque, who had called in sick at work, grabbed his bike and jumped aboard the train to Bernalillo, where he caught the bus to Jemez Springs.

The hot spring is just one of several in the Jemez Springs area where visitors can enjoy a brisk hike in the woods and cap it off with a soothing soak in a natural hot spring.

Bob, who politely declined to provide his last name, said his midweek mental-health day was much more enjoyable because he was able to use public transportation to get out of town.

"It's a little-known fact," he says, "that you can take the train out to Bernalillo first thing in the morning and the bus to Jemez Springs is waiting there for you — and it's free with your train ticket."

Unfortunately, the morning train from Santa Fe arrives about 20 minutes too late at the 550 station in Bernalillo for riders to take advantage of the outbound Jemez Springs bus.

But, being from Albuquerque, Bob was able to benefit from a great break in the weather and call dibs on the steaming pool located high on a hillside with a great southern view of the Jemez Valley.

Spence Hot Spring is located about 7 miles north of Jemez Springs off N.M. 4, between mile markers 24 and 25. The parking lot is currently under renovation, and improvements to the trail are planned later this year.

Because of its close proximity to the roadway, Jemez Springs is one spring in the area that is more heavily used. On this Tuesday morning, however, it sees just a few visitors.

Just down the road at the Battleship Rock parking area, one can find trail 137 and a 2-mile hike to McCauley Warm Springs, where the clear pools of warm water are larger and tiny minnows nibble at your skin.

These pools see less traffic during the week because of their remote location. Therefore, these pools can usually be enjoyed with little or no other company.

But those who are seeking a real workout in getting to a hot spring should consider hiking in to the San Antonio hot springs, located alongside the creek of the same name.

This hillside hot spring is a cult favorite among winter hikers due to its remoteness, steady supply of hot water and the fabulous view.

To reach it, one can follow Forest Road 376 north of N.M.126 about six miles. The forest road is closed to vehicles in the winter.

Another hiking route follows San Antonio creek along an old logging road found just across N.M. 126 from the San Antonio Campground. This round-trip hike covers about 10 miles, crosses some private land and ends at the intersection of Forest Road 376 just below the springs.

Others seeking an even shorter route to the San Antonio Hot Springs have taken the river trail through Ice Cave Canyon from Thompson Ridge Estates. This shaves several miles off the trip, but is naturally a more difficult and adventurous hike.

Either way, the effort is usually worth it and may be all that much easier this winter because of the lack of snowfall. Consult the Santa Fe National Forest map for more detailed directions or visit the Jemez Ranger District office at N.M. 4 outside of Jemez Springs for more information.

Visitors to these hot springs should pack swimsuits, as it is technically illegal to skinny dip in the pools.

Bathers should also be aware that the warm waters may contain bacteria that can cause serious illnesses such as meningitis and should avoid getting water in the nostrils or other body entrances.

Those seeking a hot mineral bath without the hike can find the Jemez Springs bath house within the village, as well as the Giggling Springs bath house, both located in downtown Jemez Springs.

And after a full day of soaking, visitors may want to drop in to the Los Ojos Bar in downtown Jemez Springs and experience one of the last of a dying breed of real, rustic New Mexico roadhouses.

Karl F. Moffatt is a longtime New Mexico journalist and avid outdoorsman who can be contacted through his blog at www.outdoorsnewmexico.com.


IF YOU GO

From Santa Fe, take U.S. 84/285 north to Pojoaque and N.M. 502 to N.M. 4 through White Rock and then up the mountain past the Valles Caldera and down to Jemez Springs. For an alternate route home, continue on N.M. 4 through Jemez Pueblo to San Ysidro and follow U.S. 550 to Interstate 25 at Bernalillo.