Hiking the high country
Evan Rommel | For The New Mexican
Posted: Wednesday, September 01, 2010
- 9/1/10
     
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New Mexico's high country offers something for everyone, whether it's fishing, overnight camping, spectacular mountain scenery or just some pleasant hiking.

If you're ready for some very strenuous hiking, you will be rewarded with reaching the highest point in New Mexico — Wheeler Peak.

The standard approach to Wheeler Peak, and one I highly recommend, is the 7.5-mile trail that leads to the peak by way of the Bull-of-the-Woods Meadows. This hike is not for the faint of heart.

To get to Taos from Santa Fe, drive north on U.S. 84/285 which turns into N.M. 68 in Española. This takes you to Taos in a little over an hour. Another option is the more scenic High Road to Taos. From U.S. 84/285, turn right on N.M. 503 at Nambé and follow the signs carefully. This route takes about 90 minutes.

Once in Taos, the huge mountain you see from downtown is 12,305-foot Pueblo Peak. Wheeler Peak is hidden behind it. From Taos, take N.M. 522 and then N.M. 150 to Taos Ski Valley. To find the trailhead, it's necessary to park in the Taos Ski Lodge parking lot. On the east side of the parking lot is a clearly marked trailhead.

These higher peaks of New Mexico are amazing in their own right, and like Colorado's peaks, there is a danger of lightning. Always stay on the trails and at the first hint of an approaching thunderstorm, get down from high and exposed areas. Always take rain gear, a compass, flashlight, lighter and matches, sunscreen and plenty of water and a snack.

Wheeler Peak's main trail is very, very steep at first. In fact, having "bagged" many peaks, I can safely say that Wheeler Peak's initial trail is one of the most grueling, disheartening approaches I've ever encountered. You gain elevation very quickly. Take breaks at reasonable intervals.

The trail runs right next to a powerful stream and through dense pine forests, with, of course, New Mexico's signature aspens as well. It takes quite a while before the ground levels out.

When the treeline breaks, you will find yourself in Bull-of-the-Woods Meadow, where I found birds that will eat right out of your hand. They seem to enjoy trail mix. The introductory journey is over.

The ridge you are on is across from the Taos ski slopes, which are on a different ridgeline directly to your west. The trail joins up with a service road for a while, and there is a very easy hike to Bull-of-the-Woods Peak. This peak has trees on top so it doesn't afford much of a view. However, the service road and the trail part ways shortly after this point, and the fun finally begins.

The Indian Paintbrush and many other wildflowers dominate the scene as the trail goes very nearly straight south through remarkable high meadows. This area is exposed, but if it's a sunny day and the winds aren't too high, it's simply amazing and extremely leisurely as it involves very easy elevation gain over a very long run. The views become remarkable.

Before you get to Walter Peak and Wheeler Peak, you must descend a considerable distance into a valley. There is water here, although this area is not recommended for overnight camping. The trail winds up from this valley to Walter Peak.

This is one of New Mexico's classic peak approaches and you will feel thrilled, although it takes a very, very long time and involves some switchbacks, which you'll want to skip. However, I recommend taking all the switchbacks, since it eases the approach.

When you summit Walter Peak, you'll see Wheeler, just slightly to the south and several feet higher. To get there, walk down into the "saddle" between the two peaks and back up a bit until you're on the highest point in New Mexico, 13,161 feet. By the way, the peak is named for Maj. George M. Wheeler. There were some fat, healthy marmots at the summit, and this is the only place in New Mexico where I've personally encountered bighorn sheep, which you shouldn't feed.

An easier hike

Because New Mexico's highest peak involves some very strenuous hiking, I've decided to include a moderately easy hike that is well known to Santa Feans but not as well known to visitors.

So, if summitting an extreme peak is not for you, then I recommend Puerto Nambé, from which you get great views of Lake Peak to the south and Santa Fe Baldy, directly to the northeast.

To get started, park at the Santa Fe Ski Basin parking lot. On the north side of the lot is the trailhead for Winsor Trail. The first part of this trail is a little steep, but afterward it is breathtakingly refreshing. Once you hike through the wilderness gate, you will walk through a mile or so of aspens. There is water along the way, and a side trail leads up to Nambé Lake.

Staying on the main trail takes you over a footbridge and through sunny aspen groves, to a classic view of Santa Fe Baldy. This is a great picnic spot. At this point, you're most of the way there. The trail turns east, steepens ever so slightly, and climbs to an immense meadow.

This is Puerto Nambé, and this is where trails go on to Penitente Peak and to points northeast as well. Many hikers take the entire loop, which goes up to Penitente Peak and Lake Peak and back to the ski area. However, I've found the hike to Puerto Nambé to be satisfying and refreshing.

In a recent article, I oversimplified a description of New Mexico's peaks that exceed 13,000 feet, saying that there are two of them. Wheeler Peak is the highest peak in New Mexico, and it has an immediate next-door neighbor known as Walter Peak. There is also a peak known as Old Mike Peak. And Truchas Peak has two sub-peaks, North Truchas and Media Truchas, both of which exceed 13,000 feet. So I think it's safe to say that this brings the total to six.

Evan Rommel is an avid hiker and lives in Santa Fe
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