As autumn segues into winter, about a dozen vendors bring an eclectic assortment of winter squash, pumpkins and gourds to the Santa Fe Farmers Market. Hardy squash, with their splendid variety of shapes, sizes and colors, announce the change of seasons much like the vibrant autumn leaves do.

Teague and Kosma Channing, brothers who started Gemini Farm seven years ago, grow several vegetables, but only one variety of winter squash: a Hubbard-type squash that is ready to pick during the first week of September. Teague Channing said it is perfect for the climate in Las Trampas, a small mountain village at 7,600 feet on the high road to Taos.

"The squash on our table is an old mountain variety known as calabaza Mexicana," Teague Channing explained, "It matures in a very short growing season and spends about two to three weeks curing in the sun outside the house, where we can cover it with tarps in case there is a frost at night — so it ripens on the vine,"

The Channing brothers bring cooked squash to the market for people to sample. The cubed squash on the wooden cutting board is sweet and extremely tasty, sans any added sweetener or other flavoring. Although delicious on their own, the squash also make wonderful pies, soups and excellent bread — and can also be peeled, cubed and cooked like potatoes in meat dishes.

Teague Channing said that some of the Pueblo people used to bury them and dig them up after they were roasted in pits, and then dry them out for the winter. The old timers in parts of Northern New Mexico, including Truchas, Ojo Sarco and Española, have been growing these squash — often called Leyba squash — for a long time. "We met a man named Jose Elude Leyba," he said. "He died about three years ago, and we became friends with him. These seeds come from his family stock, so it was always a real honor to invite him over to our farm. He gave us some nice pointers. Leyba wanted to carry on that seed. We have been growing the squash for seven years and have been doing our own seed and strain selection."

Channing said he thinks that all his squash came from a blue Hubbard-type squash and a pink squash that grew together in the field and began to naturally hybridize — thus the beautiful stripes and mottled appearance.

Rose Adams said she was immediately attracted to the muted New Mexico colors of the squash — so much that she spent over $200 on "these amazing squash" because they were an excellent complement to the subtle colors of the fabrics in her shop, Faircloth/Adams, in the Inn at Loretto. She didn't regret the expense, she said, but was sorry that she didn't take photographs.

Unlike the Channing brothers, vendors who tend to farm at lower elevations truck in a wide variety of squash, including Acorn, Delicata, Red Curi (a Japanese squash that resembles a pumpkin), Carnival and Marina di Chioggia (an Italian squash). It seems that each year new varieties make their way to the market.

Phil Loomis (Jacona Farms), who has been farming and selling at the market for 18 years, said he loves growing winter squash and pumpkins. "I like the taste of them. I like to cook them. I like the looks of them," Loomis announced with a broad smile. His well-stocked display is proof of his fondness for winter squash. Marina di Chioggia is his favorite this year. Sweet, but not too sweet, the meat is thick with a slightly savory flavor. He said it is a favorite of the Italians, who use it to fill ravioli. It is also tasty baked by itself with a bit of olive oil and salt.

The Carnival squash, a cross between a Delicata and an Acorn squash, is sweet and extremely tasty. The Delicata, as its name conveys, has a delicate flavor. The small, striped squash is delicate in appearance as well and is excellent baked with olive oil and salt in its cavity. Some cooks like to bake their squash covered with a tiny bit of water, while others say water isn't necessary. Teague Channing said he cooks it uncovered, open side facing up, because he thinks it comes out sweeter that way. There are scores of recipes for winter squash, but they are also easy to experiment with — they seem to be receptive to anyone with a creative imagination in the kitchen.

Loomis said winter squash can be stored for up to 6 months in a cool, dry place, adding that it is better to buy squash early because you can pick the best ones — as long as you have a good place to store them. They tend to become sweeter the longer they are stored, he added.

Ben Schwartz (Corrales Garden Nursery) has been farming for over 20 years —1 2 in New Mexico and 10 in the Catskill Mountains in New York State. In the 1970s he had organic vegetable gardens, but this the first time in many years that he has grown winter squash commercially.

His winter squash crop includes butternut, buttercup (a favorite in the Northeast) red Curi and Delicata. He said his favorite this year is the Butternut, adding that "We have butternut that is a hybrid butternut supreme. It is deep orange and has a tiny seed cavity. It's almost pudding-like and absolutely delicious. The flavor is almost like an orange."

Winter squash, depending on the vendor, is available through Thanksgiving and in some cases through Christmas.


IF YOU GO:

WHEN: 8 a.m. - noon Saturdays; 8 a.m. - noon Tuesdays, through Nov. 24 (winter hours, which begin around the New Year, are 9 a.m-1 p.m. on Saturdays only)

WHERE: 1607 Paseo de Peralta, Santa Fe Railyard, southwest corner

FOR MORE INFORMATION: 983-4098; santafefarmersmarket.com


RECIPES

Winter Squash Ravioli with Brown Sage Butter, Pine Nuts & Parmesan Cheese

(recipe courtesy Matt Yohalem, Chef/Proprietor, Il Piatto Cucina Italia, in Santa Fe)


Full ingredients list:

1 lb. all-purpose flour plus 1 extra pound to use as needed

5 eggs (4 for pasta dough, 1 for egg wash)

Pinch each of nutmeg and cinnamon

1 cup grated high-quality Parmesan cheese

1 1/2 tbsp chopped garlic

1/2-tbsp chopped shallots

12-oz white wine

1 tbsp fresh chopped sage

1/2-cup extra virgin olive oil

2 tbsp ground pine nuts

2 tbsp toasted whole pine nuts

5 lbs. seeded organic winter squash, peel on, the sweeter & fresher, the better

1/3-lb. European style butter

Salt and black pepper



Basic Pasta Dough
(from above ingredients)

1 lb all-purpose flour

4 large eggs

1 tbsp olive oil

1 pinch salt

Water as needed

Place most of the flour on a clean work surface (about 9/10). Make a well like a volcano in the center. In a bowl, separately (so as to avoid shells) crack the eggs. Add them to the well of flour. Sprinkle with salt and half the oil. Knead the dough until it becomes dense and round, adding water as needed and sprinkling with flour if it sticks.

Allow dough to rest one hour refrigerated & covered with a damp cloth.

Filling: Roast the 5 lbs halved, seeded (peel-on) winter squash covered, at 350 degrees after topping evenly with 4 oz. butter, 1 tbsp. salt, 1/4-cup extra virgin olive oil, ground pepper, pinch of nutmeg, pinch of cinnamon, 1 tbsp chopped garlic, and 12 oz. of white wine. Roast 45 minutes or until tender. Allow it to cool.

Peel squash and place flesh in a bowl with 1/2-cup of the cooking liquid. Add 3/4 of the parmesan cheese, 1 tsp chopped garlic, 1 tsp chopped shallots, 1 tsp chopped sage, 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, 1/2-cup grated parmesan cheese and 2 tbsp ground pine nuts. Fork-mash mixture until smooth.

Roll out and fill pasta dough: Cut rested pasta into 2 x 6 x 1 inch slices and, starting at highest roll number of a home pasta-rolling machine, roll through one-by-one. Re-roll at lower numbers one-by-one until it has reached the second-thinnest setting. (You may need to add flour to keep dough from sticking).

Dust a large baking tray generously with flour. Using a well-floured ravioli mold, place half the pasta sheet on top. Paint with egg wash. Place 1 tbsp of squash mixture in the center of each square. Carefully place a top pasta sheet onto the filled sheet, keeping excess air out. Press down evenly around edges. Roll the pieces together with rolling pin. Invert the mold over a floured baking sheet, and repeat the process with remaining dough. Make sure the raviolis are separated. (Fresh ravioli also freeze well).

To finish: Heat a large pot of water. Add salt and bring to a boil. In a small separate sauce pan add butter and cook on medium heat until it foams and you smell hazelnuts (seconds count here). Add sage, salt, pepper and pine nuts. Reserve on very low heat if not using immediately.

Boil pasta 3 to 5 minutes until it floats. Remove using a slotted spoon and place onto a platter. Top with butter-sage sauce. Garnish with remaining Parmesan cheese. Serve immediately.

Fresh light red wines do well with this dish. Beaujolais Noveau Est Arive!

Baked Squash (recipe courtesy Ben Schwartz)

Cut a small Winter squash in half lengthwise. Scoop out seed cavity and put a bit of oil or butter and honey in the cavity. Put in covered baking dish in 350-400 degree oven for 40 minutes or until done.

Uncover and place under the broiler for a few minutes. Apples, raisins or any other combination of fruit and nuts may be used for filling as well.

Lasagna-Style Baked Winter Squash (recipe courtesy Teague Channing)

Peel skin from one whole squash. Cut in half, deseed, and then cut into one quarter-inch slices.

Rub with salt, chile, minced garlic and olive oil. In a baking dish layer squash with your favorite with marinara sauce and grated Italian cheeses, and bake in a 350 degree oven for about one hour, or until cooked to your liking.

Carnival Squash Custard (Natasha Nargis)

2 cups Carnival squash, flesh only (may substitute acorn, butternut or Marina di Chioggia)

1 cup half-and-half

4 large eggs

2 Tablespoons of honey

1/4 teaspoon each cardamom, cinnamon and anise (or to taste)

1/2 teaspoon grated or finely minced ginger (or to taste)


Bake squash in 375-degree oven for about one hour or until soft. Mash squash. Beat in eggs, honey, half and half, cardamom, cinnamon, anise and ginger. Turn the mixture into an ungreased baking dish and bake at 375 degrees for 45 minutes or until solid but not dry.

Natasha Nargis is a freelance writer and photographer. She may be reached at gmail.com