When I moved to Santa Fe from Sonoma, Calif., I had very concrete ideas about wine. Being from wine country, I always thought that the best grapes required a Mediterranean climate — the rule being that if conditions are favorable to growing fig and olive trees, then a decent vineyard could be supported.

I was surprised, therefore, to discover that winemakers in New Mexico have managed to produce some exceptional wines since the 1600s — which makes the Land of Enchantment the oldest wine region in the country.

Gruet Winery

With a 45,000-square-foot plant and an oasis of a tasting room, Gruet Winery is on a frontage road off Interstate 25 in Albuquerque. Although its facility is housed in the Duke City, Gruet's grapes for its award-winning wines are grown in Truth or Consequences.

"The vines are grown about seven miles from Elephant Butte, so while it can get very hot during the day, it really cools off at night, which is ideal [for] the vines," said Lori Anne McBride, wine ambassador for Gruet.

With a successful vineyard in the Champagne region of France, the Gruet family decided to expand its wine business to the U.S., settling in New Mexico in 1983, after scouting soil and growing conditions throughout the country.

As a consummate award winner, Gruet is best known for all seven of its sparking wines. The company's best-seller is the Brut ($13.75), which is made from a combination of chardonnay and pinot grapes.

When Gruet opened its winery in Albuquerque, the family personally delivered its wines to tasting events across the country, trying to woo distributors and restaurants. It helped that the family created affordable sparkling wines — most are priced less than $20.

Black Mesa Winery

After speaking with Jerry Burd, who owns Black Mesa Winery with his wife, Lynda, I quickly sensed his enthusiasm for wine.

"I have over 25 types of wine in the tasting room because I can't make up my mind," he said. "I try to love them all the same because they're like my kids, for better or for worse."

Situated halfway between Taos and Santa Fe, Black Mesa Winery sits on 6 acres in the fertile Velarde Valley. The Burds' wines are made from a combination of locally grown grapes and grapes grown in Deming. While their pinot noir ($44.95) took home a bronze medal in a San Francisco wine contest this year, their best-seller is a dessert wine called Black Beauty ($17.50).

"Think chocolate-covered cherries but with that nice acid balance; not overly sweet," Jerry Burd said.

Black Mesa's Coyote wine ($32.95), a blend of cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel and petite syrah, is also an award winner.

While the hard freezes in February took their toll on grape production, the Burds remain optimistic.

"[This year] was an outstanding year, especially for reds," Jerry Burd said. "You taste them, and you just have to smile."

Vivac Winery

Not far from Black Mesa Winery sits Vivac Winery, the creation of Dixon locals and brothers, Jesse and Chris Padberg. Their goal?

"To make the best wine possible and have a good time doing it," the brothers said.

Having studied old-world wine culture, the brothers took their cue from France and Italy. Their constant quest for improvement has paid off as their V. Syrah ($22), which received a rating of 88 points from Wine Spectator — the highest rating for a red wine in New Mexico history.

The beautiful, art-lined tasting room also boasts homemade chocolates and an inviting flagstone.

IF YOU GO

GRUET, 8400 Pan American Freeway NE in Albuquerque

Open: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday and noon to 5 p.m. Saturday

Information: Call 888-857-9463 or 505-821-0055

BLACK MESA WINERY, 1502 N.M. 68, mile marker 15 in Velarde

Information: Call 505-852-2820

VIVAC WINERY, 2075 N.M. 68 in Dixon

When: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday and noon to 6 p.m. Sunday

Information: Call 505-579-4441