Now that Halloween has passed, we've entered the period I like to call "the Slippery Slope." In a few short weeks, it'll be Thanksgiving and the holiday season will have begun in earnest. Here are some thoughts about food — and some food for thought — as you head into that busy, festive time of year.
Thanksgiving Day is a time to pause and be grateful for our friends, for our family and for abundance, most notably that of the food in front of us. But amid all the festivities, we shouldn't lose sight of the impact our dinner can have on the environment and the global community. As representatives of the World Society for the Protection of Animals suggest, "Making humane choices when shopping for a turkey and other holiday groceries is a simple-yet-powerful way to make a difference."
The focal point of most T-Day tables is the turkey — so many of which are tasteless and dry (nearly 100 percent of the turkeys consumed by Americans are factory-farmed Broad-Breasted Whites). As a flavorful alternative, try a heritage turkey. Birds of these breeds, like Black, Bronze, Narragansett, White Holland, Slate, Bourbon Red, Beltsville Small White and Royal Palm. They are recognized by the American Poultry Association, mate naturally (Broad-Breasted Whites require human assistance to breed), grow slowly, and live long lives. They commonly roam freely outdoors and enjoy a varied natural diet without fillers, supplements and antibiotics. Though often smaller and leaner than supermarket turkeys, heritage breeds are known for their superior flavor.
Several farms in Northern New Mexico raise heritage breeds. Socorro's Pollo Real (505-838-0345 or polloreal.com) sells and reserves birds on Saturdays at the Santa Fe Farmers Market. Turkeys from Embudo Valley Organics ("Home of the Happy Turkey," 505-579-4147) are available at La Montañita Co-op. Talus Wind Ranch in Galisteo (taluswindranch.com) breeds award-winning turkeys, which you can reserve by calling Dave Parker at 505-577-2270.
If you do choose to go the store-bought route, look for "Pasture Raised," "USDA Organic," "American Humane Certified," "Animal Welfare Approved" or "Certified Humane" stamps. Labels such as "natural" or "naturally raised" mean very little ("naturally raised," for example, does ensure that an animal is free of antibiotics or hormones but not that it was raised in a humane, free-range environment). If you're not completely sold on the idea of turkey to begin with, consider a meat-free Thanksgiving — this is one of the most vegetable- and vegetarian-friendly holidays on the calendar.
Celebrating doesn't mean you have to buy the biggest turkey you can find or make four times the food your family and friends can possibly eat. Scaling back or planning moderately can save you from weeks of dreaded leftovers (turkey meatloaf anyone?) but can also curb waste. According to Jonathan Bloom, who investigates the food Americans toss out and chronicles his findings at wastedfood.com, our nation squanders enough food daily to fill Madison Square Garden — more than 100 billion pounds a year. Dealing with dumped food costs the government money, upwards of $100 billion, Bloom estimates, that certainly could be better spent. In addition, rotting food creates methane gas, which has higher "global warming potential" than carbon dioxide. To help cut back on waste during the holiday season, Bloom offers some suggestions: Plan your meals before you shop, make a thorough shopping list and stick to it, and serve reasonable portions. And if you do have leftovers, make a point of eating them.
Being thankful doesn't mean you should overindulge. According to the Calorie Control Council, "The average American consumes more than 4,500 calories and ... 229 grams of fat ... (during) a traditional Thanksgiving dinner." Stuffing your face with multiple servings of turkey and pumpkin pie will strain not just the button on your pants but also your body. Referring to studies led by Dr. Francisco Lopez-Jimenez of the Mayo Clinic College of Medicine, The New York Times suggests, "The extra digestive workload demanded by a food binge requires the heart to pump more blood to the stomach and intestines. Heavy consumption of fatty foods can also lead to changes that cause blood to clot more easily," potentially increasing the risk of heart attack. The Times also notes that "after a high-fat meal, the gallbladder has to work harder to help with fat digestion," raising the risk of gallstones.
Deciding to celebrate ethically doesn't mean you have to be a stick in the mud, either. Stock your bar with local, organic or sustainably produced wine and beer. Or pick up the new book from author Paul Abercrombie titled Organic, Shaken and Stirred. In an interview with the Tampa Tribune, Abercrombie admits, "I just couldn't stand to see one more person begin their meal of fresh, from-the-farm vegetables and meats with a cocktail made with artificial ingredients the color of nothing found in nature." The book offers tips for buying "green" spirits — vodka, gin, and tequilas made from organically grown grains — as well as recipes for drinks made using fresh, eco-friendly ingredients. Cheers to that!
Laurel Gladden is a freelance writer and editor living in Santa Fe. Contact her at the.ethical.epicure@gmail.com.
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