Wagon Mound might be a world away from the Hawaiian resort of Lanai, but the two locations have more in common than you would think.

Folks gather for Bean Day each Labor Day weekend to remember way back when Wagon Mound claimed the title of "Pinto Bean Capital of New Mexico."

In like fashion, the annual Lanai Pineapple Festival celebrates the bygone era when life on this tiny Hawaiian island revolved around the cultivation of the sweet, succulent tropical fruit.

On his second voyage, while on the Caribbean island of Guadalupe in 1493, Christopher Columbus became the first European to taste the anana, or "excellent fruit" that evolved in Brazil and Paraguay and was named for its resemblance to a pinecone.

Sought for its taste, beauty and rarity, the pineapple later became the symbol of hospitality in Colonial America. Arrayed on a pedestal atop a highly decorated table, the rare fruit became the last word in entertaining, demonstrating the colonial hostess's regard for her guests. The reigning exotic rarity, the costly pineapple might be rented for one event and consumed at another.

From such an honored position, the fruit acquired iconic status, an architectural motif that spoke of hospitality.

The pineapple is as nutritious as it is tasty. Seafarers knew they could avoid scurvy by consuming the fruit that is rich in vitamins A, C, B1 and manganese, plus a digestive compound called bromelain.

When selecting pineapples, look for one that is ripe — that is, a leaf can easily be pulled from the crown — and one that has a clean, flat bottom.

Island history

In one way or another, Lanai has remained a private island for generations. In 1922, James Dole purchased the entire island, which had been used for cattle ranching, for $1.1 million. Dole began the agricultural project of cultivating 90 percent of the world's pineapple on almost 20,000 acres of this 18-mile-long, 3-mile-wide island.

Dole imported labor from the Phillipines, China and Japan and built a plantation town, Lanai City, for his workers around central Dole Park.

Lanai City remains home to 3,000 descendants of those workers, most of whom are employed in the tourism industry that replaced pineapples when it became cheaper to grow them outside Hawaii.

Lanai still has not a single stoplight, only one gas station, and a population that loves all things pineapple. A few local markets, cafes and galleries, as well as public buildings, ring Dole Park. With its complete lack of stress, secluded beaches, resident spinner dolphins, humpback whale migration, the remote 12-mile Munro Trail, sacred sites and luxury golf and recreational pursuits, it is the perfect getaway.

After all, Bill Gates got married here.

A fair for all

The annual Pineapple Festival is celebrated as close to July 4 as possible in Dole Park, which serves the island much as the New Mexico plaza serves its village. Any resident of Northern New Mexico would have felt at home at the 15th Pineapple Festival, celebrated at the end of June 2007. The gathering of friends and families, the craft and environmental education booths, the aromas of favorite foods, and the display of local talent is as familiar as any county fair.

Here, the coronation of Miss Junior Miss Hawaii, a Lanai-style American Idol competition, live local music, hula and fireworks highlight the festivities.

The Lanai Youth Center, an island service agency for youth from 7 through 18 years old, sponsors the festival's "Pineapple PuPu" contest. According to Diane Irons, director of the youth center, "Our younger children love to cook, so one of our activities is culinary arts. The kids have fundraised to purchase kitchen supplies and equipment. They've created many pineapple dishes and have entered the Pineapple Festival's cooking contest for three years. They've made great dishes and some not so great ones. In the end, it's the fun and laughter that really make the day."

Six-year-old Breanna Russell won the kids' division with her peanut butter-pineapple tea sandwiches. To make them, butter bread on one side. Mix creamy peanut butter, honey and drained crushed pineapple together. Spread over 1 slice of buttered bread. Top with another buttered slice of bread. Cut diagonally into 4 pieces.

The kids make the marinade and the parents do the barbecuing for this popular dish:

PINEAPPLE CHICKEN BARBECUE

10 pieces chicken (thighs, drumsticks or equivalent)
8 ounces pineapple juice
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup low-sodium soy sauce

Combine pineapple juice, sugar, water and soy sauce. Marinate chicken pieces ovenight in the mixture. Grill over medium heat barbecue or under broiler until chicken juices run clear. The kids in Lanai like to eat this with hot steamed rice.

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Here are two recipes executive chef Oliver Beckert serves guests of Four Seasons Resorts Lanai.

LANAI PINEAPPLE CHUTNEY

1 small fresh pineapple, peeled, cored and chopped
1 red onion, peeled and diced small
1 tablespoon ginger, peeled and minced
6 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 cup pineapple juice
1/2 cup dark rum
1 tablespoon hot Asian chili paste

In a medium saucepan, combine all ingredients except the chili paste. Cook uncovered over medium heat for 40 minutes or until the mixture has a syrupy consistency. Fold in chili paste. Serve with grilled fish or chicken.

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PINEAPPLE COBBLER

1 pineapple, peeled, cored and diced small
2 cups sugar
1 tablespoon nutmeg
1 tablespoon cinnamon
1 cup pineapple juice
Juice of 1 lemon
1/2 tablespoon cornstarch
1/2 cup water

Topping:

1 cup all purpose flour
1 cup butter
1 cup sugar
Vanilla ice cream, for serving

In a medium saucepan combine pineapple, juice, sugar and spices. Bring to a boil. Mix cornstarch and water together well. Thicken pineapple mixture with cornstarch mixture and transfer into a cobbler dish. Combine flour, sugar and butter for topping. Crumble over cobbler filling. Bake for 15 minutes at 350 degrees, or until golden brown. Serve topped with vanilla ice cream.

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Oliver Caberto's winning recipe from the 2007 Lanai Pineapple Festival:

HAWAIIAN ROASTED CHICKEN SALAD WRAPS

For the salad:

1-1/2 pounds roasted chicken
Chopped macadamia nuts (optional)
1 cup chopped pineapple (or 1
8-ounce can crushed pineapple in juice, drained, with 1 tablespoon juice reserved)
For the dressing:
1 cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon white vinegar
2 teaspoons
1 tablespoon pineapple juice
1 teaspoon orange zest
Salt and pepper to taste

To assemble the wraps:
Flour tortillas (cut in half)
Romaine lettuce (halved and ribs removed)
Shred chicken, discard bones and skin.

Mix all ingredients for dressing and fold in shredded chicken and pineapple. Chopped macadamia nuts may be added at this point if desired. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours. Season with salt and pepper.

To assemble wraps: For each serving, place halved tortillas, cut side down, on plate. Lay 1 to 2 romaine lettuce halves lengthwise on the tortilla halves. Spoon 1 heaping tablespoon of the chicken mixture onto the lettuce and spread three-quarters of the way across the lettuce. Begin rolling the tortilla from one end to the other in a conical shape. Secure ends with a toothpick. Chill until time to serve.
 
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And finally, here's a favorite fresh-fruit dessert from my house:

GRILLED TEQUILA PINEAPPLE WITH FRESH MINT AND LIME

1 fresh pineapple, sliced 1/2 inch thick, with skin on
1/2 cup tequila
1/4 cup honey
1/4 cup butter
2 tablespoons lime juice (approximately the juice of 1 lime)
2 tablespoons fresh mint plus mint leaves for garnish

Olive oil

Combine tequila, honey, butter, lime and fresh mint in saucepan over medium heat. Mix well. After sauce flames, simmer 4 minutes longer, until butter melts.

Oil grill. Heat to 400 degrees.

Oil pineapple slices with olive oil. Grill pineapple slices about 3 minutes per side, turning only once to preserve clear grill marks. Baste pineapple with sauce as it grills. Remove pineapple from grill. Serve topped with vanilla ice cream, garnished with mint and drizzled with tequila sauce.

Sharon Niederman is an author and journalist who lives in Albuquerque and Raton. Visit her Web site at www.sharonniederman.com. Her next book, The Explorer's Guide to New Mexico, is due out fall 2008.