In my household, the argument over whether to serve turkey or ham for the holidays rages on, but it's a discussion I often find myself having with ... well ... myself. My partner, a longtime pesco-vegeterian (he eats fish but no other meat proteins), is happy enough at the table as long as there are plenty of side dishes and mounds of home-baked bread within reach. Over the years, however, the traditional candied yam/glazed carrot/green-bean-casserole trifecta has lost its appeal.

We're both fans of Brussels sprouts, which we usually roast with olive oil and serve plain with a little coarse salt and black pepper, and maybe a little aged wine vinegar for tang and sweetness. I knew I would need to dress them up a bit to make them stand out during the holidays. Brussels sprouts aren't for everyone, but this version transforms them into a sweet/savory side dish that even kids and sprout-haters have taken a liking to. I have a feeling that has a lot to do to with the sugared walnuts, but in the name of getting kids to eat their veggies, adding texture to the dish, and keeping the picky kids and adults happy, it's worth the extra preparation time. And trust me: If you make the sugared walnuts a day ahead, hide them well.

CARAMELIZED
BRUSSELS SPROUTS

with fig/vanilla/balsamic glaze, sugared walnuts
with orange essence and brown sage butter

(serves 4-6 during multidish gatherings, 3-4 for regular meals)

21/2-3 pounds Brussels sprouts, fresh or thawed-from-frozen, cleaned and cut in half

4 tablespoons olive oil (blended or extra virgin is fine)

1/3 cup balsamic vinegar

3 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons fig jam or paste (you may substitute plum preserves or minced, dried plums)

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

2 cups walnut halves or pieces

1 cup sugar

2 cups water

Zest from one orange, coarsely chopped

Juice from one orange

1/2 cup unsalted butter

3 leaves fresh sage, chopped

Kosher salt and black pepper for seasoning

Extra water for steaming Brussels sprouts

To make the sugared, orange-scented walnuts: You may do this a day or two in advance, but seal them in an airtight container after they have cooled completely. Patience and constant stirring are the keys to success here. Novices: You may want to practice with a smaller batch first by scaling the recipe down. In a large, wide, stainless steel sauté pan over high heat (do not use a nonstick pan), stir the 2 cups of water together with the sugar, orange juice and zest until the sugar dissolves. Reduce the orange sugar water by half over high heat and add the walnuts. Reduce heat to medium-high, and stir vigorously and constantly until the water evaporates and the nuts loosen, taking on a pale, powder-coated appearance. The nuts will look like caramel for most of the cooking process, and then they should dry out suddenly. If they don't, fear not. It's a happy accident. Carefully spread the gooey nuts out on a cookie sheet lined with lightly greased parchment paper and bake them at 250 degrees until hard. You'll have the equivalent of walnut brittle, so really, who's going to complain? (Warning: Hot sugar is kitchen lava — avoid splatters or splashing; wear oven mitts if you're unsure). Lay the finished nuts on aluminum foil or a sheet pan to cool completely. Now, go hide them.

For the glaze: Stir the jam, honey, vanilla extract and vinegar together over medium heat in a nonreactive saucepan until it begins to simmer. Turn off, and set aside.

For the Brussels sprouts: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Steam the Brussels sprouts on the stovetop or in a vegetable steamer for 10 minutes, or until slightly tender. Allow them to cool in a colander until steam dissipates (do not run them under cold water — this adds too much moisture, and they will not brown properly during roasting). In a large bowl, toss the pre-steamed sprouts with the olive oil, season them with salt and pepper, and place them in a single layer on a large, oiled pan with shallow sides (I use a cookie sheet lined with aluminum foil). Drizzle the sprouts with the glaze, cover them lightly with another piece of foil, and roast for 15 minutes. Remove the foil and continue to roast the sprouts until well caramelized, about 20 minutes more. Turn sprouts once with a spatula during roasting. (Oven times vary. If your sprouts feel almost done but there's no visible caramelization, cheat — and broil them with a watchful eye for a minute or two).

For the brown sage butter: Heat the butter and the sage in a saucepan over medium heat until the butter begins to brown and smell nutty. Remove from heat if not using immediately, or turn to low. Season with salt if desired.

To assemble the dish family style: Place the warm, roasted Brussels sprouts in a large, warm bowl, drizzle with any remaining roasting oil and/or glaze, and sprinkle with desired quantity of sugared walnuts. Serve warm brown sage butter on the side.