A "happy" celebration of death? Only in Mexico — where death is recognized, mocked and even denied. Many Mexicans see death not as the end but as the beginning, and as such it is representative of the Mexican spirit that says: "Don't take anything lying down — not even death."

In a ritual observance both religious and pagan, Mexican families mingle with the souls of their dearly departed at midnight picnics in cemeteries on the nights of Nov. 1 and 2, known as All Souls and All Saints Day. Folk tradition has it that the souls of the dead appear during the night to share a meal with the living during an all-night vigil at the cemetery. Some families bring musicians to serenade the deceased with their favorite songs. And vendors take advantage of the crowds by selling special Day of the Dead treats, lending a festive air to the occasion.

Even though a family is saddened by a loved one's departure, they do not cry. The elders say the path back to the living world must not be made slippery by tears. In Mexican culture, the lines between ancient folklore and the customs of the Spanish Conquest frequently blur.

For Mexicans food is the key to their history. Favorite foods and beverages of the deceased are left as offerings at home altars decorated with marigolds, sugar skulls and special treats like pan de muerto (bread for the dead). Decorated gravestones welcome back the spirits with the delicious smell of food in the air, with the belief that the dead are guided by the alluring odors of their favorite foods on the long journey back from the world beyond.

A cousin to Halloween, this festival is celebrated in many parts of the United States and Europe. The Museum of International Folk Art will have its annual Día de Muertos program Sunday. Activities include sugar-skull and muertos-nicho making. Refreshments such as pan de muerto, hot chocolate and horchata will be served. Also featured will be live music and videos related to Día de Muertos in Mexico.

"Last year 700 people attended, and this year we expect even more," said Aurelia Gomez, Director of Education at the Museum.

Foods for the ancestors

Special foods prepared for the occasion are tamales, moles and Mayan muk-bil pollo — a tamal pie with chicken, pork, vegetables and spices, wrapped and baked in banana leaves.

Huchepos are a specialty of the state of Michoacan, known as the home of Mexican soul food. Of Purepecha Indian origin and similar to tamales, they are made with fresh sweet corn mixed into the masa dough, are sweet or savory, filled or unfilled, and wrapped and steamed in fresh green corn leaves. Moist and fluffy, they are topped with Mexican crema or salsa and fresh cheese.

For recipes, visit: gourmetsleuth.com; greatchefs.com; and mexicanfoodabout.com (sites feature recipes from Diana Kennedy, the Julia Child of Mexican cooking).

Pan de muerto
(bread for the dead)

1/2 cup butter

1/2 cup milk

1/2 cup water

5 to 5 1/2 cups flour

2 packages dry yeast

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon whole anise seed

1/2 cup sugar

4 eggs

In a saucepan over medium flame, heat the butter, milk and water until very warm but not boiling. Meanwhile, mesure out 1 1/2 cups flour and set the rest aside. In a large mixing bowl, combine the 1 1/2 cups flour, yeast, salt, anise seed and sugar. Beat in the warm liquid until well combined. Add the eggs and beat in another 1 cup of flour. Continue adding more flour until dough is soft but not sticky. Knead on lightly floured board for ten minutes until smooth and elastic.

Lightly grease a bowl and place dough in it; cover with plastic wrap and let rise in warm place until doubled in bulk, about 1 1/2 hours. Punch the dough down and shape into a skull or round loaf with strips of dough rolled out and attached to resemble bones.

Let rise for 1 hour. Bake in a preheated 350 degree oven for 40 minutes. Remove from oven and paint on the glaze.

Glaze:

1/2 cup sugar

1/3 cup fresh orange juice

2 tablespoons grated orange zest

Bring to a boil for 2 minutes, then apply to bread with a pastry brush. Serve with Mexican hot chocolate.



Waking the dead in Pátzcuaro

A national holiday, Days of the Dead are celebrated with much fervor throughout Mexico, but few do it like they do in the state of Michoacán. The magical little island of Janitzio in the middle of Lake Pátzcuaro — with its large Purepecha Indian population — is the setting for what is believed to be the most vivid and moving celebration than anywhere else in Mexico.

This ancient ritual, said to have its roots in a pre-Columbian festival of the dead, begins with a ceremonial duck hunt on the morning of Oct. 31. Ducks that are caught are cooked, and parts are incorporated into cemetery offerings later that night.

The docks are packed with families going to and from the island bringing decorations and offerings of fruit, flowers and food. Earlier in the evening, Indians from the surrounding areas converge on the island in their canoes, each with a single candle burning in the bows.

At midnight, processions head to the graveyard for all-night vigils. If a family is participating in its first day of the dead ceremony, they might bring a band with them. Copal, or incense, and candles are lit to guide the spirits back home again. Church bells ring throughout the night while families sit between graves praying, others sitting silently.

If you plan to visit the area during this time, it is recommended that you make hotel reservations one year in advance. For information go to mexicoconnect.com or travel-patzcuaro.com