On Oct. 29, the International Foods Class at Santa Fe Community College opens its doors to the public for the final exam-cum-competition before graduation. Visitors are encouraged to taste and judge dishes from a wide array of countries. The Culinary Arts Program at SFCC has become a destination for anyone with a desire to develop the sophisticated skills necessary to pursue a career in an increasingly competitive field — or simply for the love of exploring the vast world of food, with a gourmet twist.

The aroma of cinnamon, cumin, cloves, saffron and other spices floated through the large, commercial kitchen during Chef Daniel Cohen's Mediterranean class on a recent Friday afternoon. It was Moroccan week, Cohen said, adding that he focuses on a different Mediterranean country each week.

Chef Michelle Retzer, director of the Culinary Arts Program, enthused about her satisfaction with the students as well as plans for the future, which include a new wing with a second kitchen in August 2010. As Retzer spoke, Cohen arrived at well-paced intervals with tantalizing samples of Moroccan spring rolls glazed with an orange sauce; sweet couscous with a subtle hint of orange, apricot and cinnamon; bisteeya (a type of sweet and savory pie common in Moroccan cuisine) and baked figs with pomegranate sauce and mascarpone cheese, to name a few — all prepared by students.

The bisteeya, in this case a savory chicken version (it's traditionally cooked with squab or pigeon), was prepared by Robert and Lisa Gosper-Espinosa. Lisa is taking the class for a second degree and Robert, a woodworker by trade, is along for the ride because he enjoys cooking. "I took another class with my wife last summer," he said. "It was a commercial baking class. We both love to cook. The experience has been fabulous, and I intend to take more classes here."

After taking one baking class, Lisa Gosper-Espinosa said that was it — she quit her job at the college and is now devoting her time and energy to completing her associates degree in Culinary Arts. And now the teacher is the student again: Before working at the college she taught junior high school for 12 years. Gosper-Espinosa said she is delighted to be doing what she is most passionate about.

"I've always liked to cook," she said, "I come from a cooking family. I'm half Italian, and my grandfather had a bakery in upstate New York after he came over from Italy. I would like to have a bakery and be a third-generation baker, though I wouldn't bake only Italian. I want to bake everything I possibly can."

Retzer said people taking culinary arts classes range from those in their 60s to young kids who are home-schooled. Two girls who started in kid's camp are now taking credit classes, Retzer said, adding that it has been "really cool watching them grow up."

The college offers a professional kitchen, with a professional chef, for both degree-seeking and non-degree-seeking students to expand on their love for food, as well as to expand on their lives. (Taste section editor Rob DeWalt, it turns out, is also a former culinary student who was involved in the apprentice program at SFCC in the '90s, studying under La Fonda chef Lane Warner and Il Piatto chef/owner Matt Yohalem, among others).

"This is certainly one very small way you can make huge improvements in your life," Retzer said, adding that she is happy to see students develop a stronger appreciation for food. With the deeper understanding of different cuisines comes a better grasp of other cultures. Cohen said that in his Italian class he addresses Italy's diverse climate and geography, which plays an important role in why the food in Northern Italy is different from that at the tip of the boot.

Cohen said that after graduating from college at 21 with a history degree, he was still deciding what to do with his life. He didn't want to be in school right then, so he went to work in a coffee house, where he quickly migrated from making coffee to working in the kitchen. One of his bosses was impressed with his work and encouraged him to attend cooking school.

Cohen moved to San Francisco, where he received a degree from the California Culinary Academy. After graduation he worked in the upscale end of the food industry for 12 years — in restaurants, catering and at a prestigious gentlemen's club near the Russian River in Northern California. Two and a half years ago he moved to Santa Fe because his wife is from here.

"Everybody should take a cooking class," Cohen said. "We talk about food and we eat a lot. Life is simply better if you know how to cook." Jim and Lynne Kozak, who describe themselves as periodic students, agree. Before taking classes, cooking was something they had to do — not something they enjoyed. After Retzer's Italian and seafood classes they were hooked, and are now enjoying Cohen's Mediterranean class.

"The culinary school has changed the way we look at food and the way we experience restaurants," Lynne Kozak said. "We are more curious. It has broadened our horizons."

Patrick Mares, a more traditional student, said he is taking classes to obtain his associate's degree in culinary arts and to broaden his knowledge of the industry. Mares worked at a Mexican grill in Albuquerque before moving to Santa Fe, where he worked for three months at the Old House restaurant at the Eldorado Hotel. He is now working at Red Sage, Mark Miller's restaurant at Buffalo Thunder Casino & Resort.

In a city that has as many restaurants as Santa Fe does, it isn't surprising that the culinary school at SFCC continues to grow. Retzer said there are 28 classes offered each semester, and that when the new kitchen is completed next August, she will be able to offer about twice as many courses.

"I can't believe they pay me to do this," Retzer added. "Every day I'm so grateful for the opportunity. I feel like I've grabbed the brass ring."

Natasha Nargis is a freelance writer and photographer. She may be reached at natashanargis@gmail.com



RECIPES

BISTEEYA — BAKED CHICKEN & FILO PIE

(adapted from Cooking Moroccan, by Tess Mallos) serves 6- 8

1/2 cup olive oil,

3 lbs, 5 oz. chicken thighs, boneless/skinless,

2 large red onions, peeled & finely chopped

1 cinnamon stic

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 large pinch saffron threads

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 cups chicken stock

4 teaspoons lemon juice

1 bunch flat leaf parsley, large stems removed, finely chopped

1 bunch cilantro, large stems removed, finely chopped

5 eggs, lightly beaten

2/3 cup almonds, toasted and finely chopped

1/4 cup powdered sugar — plus extra to garnish

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon — plus extra to garnish

1/2 pound unsalted butter, melted

12 sheets filo pastry


Heat the oil in a large saucepan and brown chicken. Set aside. Add the onion and the spices and cook until golden, stir in the garlic, sauté for two minutes, then add the chicken back to the pot and mix thoroughly. Add the stock, cover and simmer for about 30 minutes, until chicken is completely cooked. Remove cinnamon stick and discard, remove the chicken, let cool and shred chicken into small pieces.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees, without convection

Add lemon juice, the parsley and cilantro to the sauce, cook until it begins to thicken, about 10 minutes. Turn heat to low. Gradually whisk in the egg, cook until they scramble. Add the shredded chicken meat and remove from heat.

Mix the almonds with the powdered sugar and cinnamon and set aside, for now.

Melt the butter and have a pastry brush ready. Brush a wide pie or baking dish with butter. Brush the first filo sheet with butter and place in the baking dish so that it is hanging over the edge. Repeat until you have eight sheets layered in the bottom of the pan with their edges all draped around, each sheet being buttered. Fill with the chicken mixture, fold four of the sheets over the chicken, sprinkle with the almond mixture and fold in the other four sheets to seal the top. Brush the entire top with butter. Bake for 45 minutes to an hour or until golden brown. Remove from oven and let cool slightly. You can flip it out of the pan onto a serving platter, carefully, or serve in the baking dish with a spatula. Sprinkle with extra powdered sugar and cinnamon to garnish.


SWEET COUSCOUS WITH APRICOTS, ALMONDS AND PISTACHIOS

(recipe from Cooking Moroccan, by Tess Mallos) serves about 4-6 as a side dish

1/2 cup pistachios, pine nuts & almonds, combined

1/4 cup dried apricots

1 1/3 cup couscous

1/4 cup sugar

1 cup boiling water

6 Tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

Pinch kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon,

3 Tablespoons sugar

1 1/2 cup milk, hot

Preheat oven to 300 degrees

Spread the pistachio, pine nuts, and almonds on a sheet pan and bake for about 5 minutes, or until golden. Let cool, then coarsely chop and place in a bowl. Julienne the apricots, add to the bowl with the toasted nuts.

Put the couscous and the sugar in a large bowl and add 1 cup of boiling water. Stir well, add the butter and a pinch of kosher salt. Stir until the butter melts. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside for 10 minutes. Fluff the grains with a fork, toss with half the fruit and nut mixture.

To serve, pile the warm couscous in the center of a platter. Arrange the remaining nut mixture around the edge. Combine the extra sugar and the cinnamon in a small bowl and serve separately for sprinkling. Pass around the hot milk in a pitcher for guests to help themselves.


ROASTED FIGS WITH HONEY AND POMEGRANATE SYRUP

serves 4 (Chef Danny Cohen's recipe)

2 Tablespoons honey, 2

6 whole figs, cut in half

1/2 cup mascarpone cheese, whipped to soft peaks

1/4 cup heavy cream, to smooth out mascarpone

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon sugar

Pomegranate syrup for garnish


Warm the honey slightly, and brush it on the halved figs. Roast in a 350-degree oven until soft and slightly caramelized. Whisk the mascarpone and cream with the cinnamon and sugar until you get to soft peaks (or a good, smooth texture.)

Place three fig halves on serving dish, place a dollop of whipped mascarpone cheese on top of the figs and drizzle with the pomegranate syrup.

You could garnish with orange segments and pistachios, too, if you like.

IF YOU GO

When: 1:30 p.m. Thursday, Oct. 29

Where: Culinary Arts lab, Santa Fe Community College, 6401 Richards Ave.

Cost: Free and open to the public

For more information: Call 428-1435 for more information