Time to make eating an act of revolution
Running with a Fork

Rob DeWalt | The New Mexican
Posted: Tuesday, October 04, 2011
- 10/5/11
     
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In case you're unaware, there's something of a revolution simmering in cities across the nation in the wake of recent events organized by the self-described Occupy Wall Street movement.

A growing intolerance for political corruption and corporate irresponsibility in the U.S. and abroad has led to numerous public protests that stretch from Maine to Washington state. Even in humble Santa Fe, where protesters tend to hide under rocks between election cycles, civil disobedience and peaceful assembly under the banner of a clearer vision of economic equality and political transparency is on the upswing.

"But what," you may ask, "does this have to do with food?"

The short answer is, "everything."

In an ever-expanding list of reasons for the protests released via an official living document on Sept. 29 by the Occupy Wall Street movement, organizers wrote, "We come to you at a time when corporations, which place profit over people, self-interest over justice, and oppression over equality, run our governments. ... They have poisoned the food supply through negligence, and undermined the farming system through monopolization."

There are, of course, plenty of other grievances that have spawned these protests, but I firmly believe that those who control the food supply eventually control it all, and at the moment, a growing number of people are struggling to regain that kind of control — for what, where and how much food is grown; how it's treated, transported and inspected; and how much is shared with those who have little or nothing to feed their families during these combustible economic and political times.

To quote Justin Berkey, a founding member of the popular Slow Money sustainable-investing movement, which held its first national gathering in Santa Fe in 2009, "Problems in the global food system parallel those in the global financial system. Investing in small food enterprises begins to fix many of the problems, quite literally, at their roots."

If ever a microcosm existed for what many people believe is wrong with our financial system, it is the lack of access that numerous poor and minority populations have to wholesome, locally produced food — caught in a cycle of only purchasing what is cheap and readily available. In many cases, however, what is cheap and within reach does more harm than good, at least in the long term. And in so doing, the perpetual wheels of illness, inequality and poverty turn 'round and 'round.

In light of the events of the past few weeks in New York and elsewhere, that old food-activist axiom, "Eating can be a revolutionary act," seems ripe for a dusting off. And while it may not be as emotionally charged or prime-time buzzworthy as a robust, group pepper spraying in the shadow of our nation's major financial district, it bears remembering the meaning, source and power of the words, "Let them eat cake."

A common complaint I hear is that wholesome, locally grown food is still out of reach of those with the least economic opportunity. In many ways that remains true, although restaurants such as The Community Table in Santa Fe and the Santa Fe Alliance as well as the Santa Fe Farmers Market are making headway in restocking the deck in favor of those who feel priced-out of a healthy and sustainable food system.

It's important to remember that our overall food supply didn't always rest in the hands of a few companies, and that family farms had more than just a fighting chance against other agriculture competitors.

"Prosperity" didn't apply to just a handful of people; and it didn't sound like such a dirty word. I get the feeling that a decent slice of America has had it up to here with the literal and proverbial cake. While that's all getting sorted out in the streets and on ballots, it probably wouldn't be such a bad idea to start growing some of your own food at home — if you still have one, that is.

Eat Local Week

To celebrate the power and common sense of sustainable food economies, the Santa Fe Alliance will present Eat Local Week from Oct. 10 to 16. There are two main events during the week that speak to the spirit of taking control of, and responsibility for, how we as a nation nourish ourselves and future generations.

The first is a Local Food Baking Competition, which takes place from 11 a.m. to noon Oct. 15 at the Santa Fe Farmers Market in the Railyard, 1607 Guadalupe St. Fifteen contestants from Santa Fe County have signed up in five categories to compete based on taste, creativity and presentation, using at least three local ingredients in each of their baking recipes. Contestants who use more than three local ingredients will receive bonus points.

Judges for the competition include Amavi and Junction chef Megan Tucker; Tree House Pastry Shop and Café's Maria Bustamante-Bernal; local cookbook maven Deborah Madison; Carol Rose; Anna Farrier of Cooking With Kids; Edible Santa Fe publisher Kate Manchester; apple farmer Eddie Velarde; and Santa Fe Farmers Market Institute president/radio host Bob Ross. There is no charge to watch the competition, and competitor registration is now closed.

The second event is a Cook With the Chef Showdown, the final event of the year for the Santa Fe Alliance's annual Cook With the Chef culinary-demonstration program, which promotes the use of local ingredients and the chefs and restaurants who love them. From 5:30 to 7 p.m. Oct. 13 at the Santa Fe Farmers Market, Cowgirl BBQ chef and co-owner Patrick Lambert and Atrisco Café & Bar chef and owner George Gundrey go tongs-to-tongs in what has been dubbed the "Local Chile & Yak App Attack."

Using New Mexico-raised yak meat and chiles, as well as a secret ingredient culled from that evening's farmers market, these able restaurateurs will duke it out in the name of local food and friendly competition to create a winning appetizer with a decidedly local provenance.

Judges for the meaty melee, which is free to the public, include Matt Yohalem, chef and owner of Il Piatto Italian Farmhouse Kitchen, chef Rocky Durham and yours truly, the Fork.





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