Have you ever noticed that the colors of fruits and vegetables seem loosely associated with the seasons in which the produce is harvested?

The clear light of spring presents us with shades of fresh, cool green on baby lettuce and edible pea pods. Summer's intense sun produces bright red tomatoes and ruby watermelon. Fall bears squash wearing warm shades of goldenrod and orange that will soon be reflected in our local trees as they shed their leaves for winter.

Pomegranates, with their deep-red skin, have arrived in the store just in time to announce our cool nighttime temperatures and the progression toward fall. While we may not have trees with leaves that turn red like those found in other parts of the country, the red color of pomegranates will appear from now until the end of the year in Halloween decorations, cornucopia displays and Christmas garlands.

Pomegranate season starts in September and finishes in December. And this is the only time to get them — fresh pomegranates are not available at any other time of year — although pomegranate juice has made its way into our everyday food culture and can be found year-round.

Probably the main reason the pomegranate has finally gained wider acceptance is because of its beneficial health attributes. Recently recognized as a so-called superfood — a food with high disease-fighting nutrient content — the pomegranate contains calcium, potassium and iron, as well as phytonutrients that protect against cancer, diabetes and heart disease. Full of antioxidants said to slow aging and promote health, the pomegranate seed is packed with Vitamin C and fiber.

Studies suggest pomegranates contain more antioxidant and disease-fighting compounds than any other food, including red wine and blueberries, two other foods that have recently received high accolades.

Pomegranates, which have been cultivated for 5,000 years, most likely originated in Iran and were dispersed along Middle Eastern, Asian and European trade routes. The Spanish brought them to this continent, where they became established as a commercial crop in both Florida and California. Today, most pomegranates come from the San Joaquin Valley in California.

Avoid making a lasting impression

In order to gain widespread acceptance, the pomegranate has had to overcome a major negative characteristic — its propensity to leave its red color on hands, clothing, virtually everything the juice comes in contact with. This red dye was probably appreciated by ancient cultures, allowing them to add color to animal hides and folk art, but modern-day cooks are not likely to share that view.

I suspect this explains why pomegranates were few and far between in my mother's grocery basket. While I may have been delighted with the image of myself after eating a pomegranate — a lipstick-red mouth that made me feel elegant and grown-up — my mother was less than enchanted with my stained dress.

But there is a way to avoid the red stain of pomegranate juice. Place the fruit on a paper towel and make a single cut around the entire circumference with a sharp knife, being careful not to cut deeper than the skin. Place the scored fruit in a large bowl filled with water and break it open while holding it under the water's surface.

Keep the pomegranate under water as you separate the seeds from the yellow membrane by rubbing your fingers across the seeds. When all the seeds have been separated, use a hand-held strainer to skim the floating membrane pieces from the surface of the water. The seeds, which will have sunk to the bottom of the bowl, can be retrieved by pouring the water through a strainer.

Sprinkle the seeds on salads, desserts, oatmeal, pancakes — almost any prepared food that would benefit from their bright color, sweet flavor and crunch.

The seeds contain juice, the healthiest part of the pomegranate. Seeds can be juiced by running them through a blender or food processor and then pressing the liquid through a strainer to remove the fiber. One medium pomegranate will provide about 3/4 to 1 cup of seeds, or about 1/2 cup of juice.

I prefer to enjoy the seeds during the short season that fresh pomegranates are available. Year round I rely on bottled pomegranate juice, which can be purchased in many forms. Pomegranate molasses, a common ingredient in Middle Eastern recipes, is juice that has been concentrated into syrup.

Pomegranate juice can be added to gravy or other meat sauces as they cook and it makes a tasty addition to vinaigrette.

To make pomegranate salad dressing, mix together 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, 1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses, 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar and 1/2 cup olive oil. The resulting 1 cup vinaigrette is not as sweet as might be suggested by the molasses, but if you prefer a lighter dressing, substitute 3 tablespoons pomegranate juice for the molasses. This vinaigrette brings out the flavor of salads containing fall fruit such as pears and apples.

Colorful fruit delights the senses

Pomegranates are picked ripe, so select fruit that is heavy with juice and has bright skin color. Pomegranates will stay fresh at room temperature for several weeks before drying out, but I prefer to refrigerate them to retain their moisture. They will last about two months in the refrigerator. Seeds can be frozen for up to six months. Juice should be kept in the refrigerator for no more than two weeks.

Because of their red color, whole pomegranates are beautiful when added to fruit or squash centerpieces. They will slowly dry, retaining their color for several years. For a slightly different look, break open a pomegranate and tie the pieces to a wreath, leaving the seedy membrane exposed. The color will be vibrant for several weeks until the seeds begin to dry and shrivel.

Here is a recipe for tabouli that is both colorful and packed with flavor.

POMEGRANATE AND SHRIMP TABOULI
(Serves 6)

1-1/3 cups couscous
2 cups water
3 tablespoons olive oil
6 (size 16/20) raw shrimp
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1 clove garlic, minced
2 tablespoons pomegranate juice
2 cups peeled and seeded chopped cucumber (about 2 small)
1-1/2 cups chopped tomatoes (about 2 small)
1 cup pomegranate seeds
3/4 cup chopped flat leaf parsley
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint
Salt and pepper to taste
6 leaves butter lettuce
6 additional shrimp for serving (optional)

Cook couscous: Bring water to boil, turn off heat and add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and couscous. Stir, cover, and let sit for five minutes. Stir couscous with a fork to fluff and scrape into a large bowl.

Cook shrimp: Broil or grill shrimp until white, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove and discard shell. Roughly chop shrimp and set aside.

Make vinaigrette: Whisk together lemon juice, garlic, the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and the pomegranate juice.

Assemble salad: Combine cooled couscous with chopped shrimp, cucumber, tomato, pomegranate seeds, parsley, mint, salt and pepper. Add vinaigrette and mix well. Fill six 1-cup ramekins with the mixture and press to pack. Ramekins can be filled 1 day ahead and refrigerated.

Serve: Place one leaf of butter lettuce on each plate and invert a ramekin on top. Remove the ramekin, leaving a mound of tabouli in the shape of the ramekin mold. Serve cold or room temperature.

For an elegant display, grill 6 additional shrimp, remove all shell but the tail, and push the head of one shrimp into each tabouli mound to form an arch.


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