On a gray Sunday afternoon in February, I met three friends at the Hotel St. Francis to check out their new weekly event, Reposo — Afternoon Tea, Coffee and Sherry. This newer, more sophisticated version of afternoon tea promised to be an unusual experience.

When I arrived five minutes before our 3 p.m. reservation, there was no one to greet me. Soon the tea tender came out to set tables, but she did not acknowledge me until I approached her. I was seated and soon my friends arrived.

It took some time to feel comfortable in the newly remodeled lobby with its stark white marble arches. A fire might have brought some warmth to the sterile setting, but the grate was cold, and the Gregorian chants in the background made everything seem more austere. Perhaps too much so. Eventually we created our own genial space, but I could not imagine enjoying afternoon tea alone in that atmosphere. The Victorian décor of this historic hotel is sorely missed.

Our tea tender brought an attractive case holding loose-leaf teas and explained what each one was. My friend Ruth was able to sniff the aroma when she requested it. The hotel is serving traditionally cultivated, hand-crafted whole-leaf teas: a first flush harvest for spring and summer, and a second flush in the fall. These first two harvestings provide the best quality tea. The chamomile also changes seasonally, blended with local lavender in winter and wild mint in the summer. Distilled water ensures that the delicate flavors are not overshadowed by chemicals or chlorine.

The server was unable to answer questions about the sherry, but she brought the bartender to our table. He not only explained the different sherries but provided samples. The unfortified Barbadillo had no character whatsoever, but the medium dry and cream Barbadillo were both very good, and the Wisdom & Warter was excellent.

My friends ordered a white tea, a Flowering Peach tea and the chamomile with lavender. Each of the teas had pleasing and complex bouquets. The Flowering Peach has a peach blossom tied together with white peony leaves. It unfurls as it steeps and floats in the water like a lovely sea anemone. (All of the teas are served in glass, Bodum-brand teapots, which are replenished with more hot distilled water upon request).

I decided to try the sugar-roasted Spanish coffee. I am told this is very popular in Spain, but it proved to be an extreme disappointment. It was very weak with a bitter flavor, and I could detect no hint of caramelized flavor it is supposed to have. It tasted like something I would expect to find in a cheap diner. However, when I expressed my dissatisfaction to the server, she immediately offered to replace it and brought me one of the best Formosa oolong teas I have tasted — at no charge.

The rest of the service left much to be desired. Despite her title, the tea tender gave no instructions on steeping times for the various teas. Fortunately, we had asked to keep a menu, which had instructions for each. Although she made frequent, fleeting stops at our table, the server did not take our food order or bring more hot water until we requested it — 45 minutes after we were seated. She was slow in clearing away plates, and we had to request the check at the end. I could see no reason for the lack of attention, as there were only two other parties in the lobby for the first hour, with one more arriving after that.

The food, however, was thoroughly enjoyable. The Dark Belgian Chocolate Torte was too rich for even my "chocoholic" friend Celia, but whipped cream and a fresh strawberry helped to balance that. The Pastelles de Tres Leches, a white cake made with three milks, was so moist it was almost like liquid in your mouth with just enough sweetness. The flan made with organic goat milk had a delectable flavor. The menu also offers Monk's Fruit Cake made by Trappist monks in Kentucky, and handmade tortas, a crisp bread imported from Spain. The anise torta is especially good.

There are no finger sandwiches on this menu, but the artisan cheese plate more than makes up for that. The cheeses vary based on availability. This day they were serving a goat-milk Chevre from the Santa Fe Farmers Market, a Manchego and a Cambozola. Chef Estevan Garcia is committed to fresh ingredients and supporting local farmers. He buys local specialties like goat-milk Gouda or Blue Camembert goat cheese when they are available. (Other ingredients, such as goat milk and organic free-range eggs, are also purchased locally.) The cheeses were nicely complemented by a hand-pressed date and walnut cake from Spain, toasted raisin walnut bread and Marcona almonds.

Taken all together, it was a pleasant afternoon. The teas, the sherry and the cuisine were all worth going back for. Both the ambience and the service left much to be desired, but with a lively friend or two to brighten the atmosphere, I'd be willing to give the service a second chance. Tea service with food and beverage was $78 before tax and tip. The Hotel St. Francis is at 210 Don Gaspar Avenue. Reposo is served from 3 to 5 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. For reservations, call 800-529-5700. For more details on tea service at Hotel St. Francis, visit www.hotelstfrancis.com/dining/afternoon-tea.php