I was best man in a friend's wedding last week and spent four days eating — and drinking — around town, enjoying some terrific food and service. As the guest of the hosting family, I rarely saw a menu or a bill with the prices on them, so I will forgo mentioning those numbers here.

Amusingly, when I mentioned to folks that I was involved in my best friend's wedding, almost everyone replied, "Oh, are you catering the event?" What a treat to be able to sit back and relax for a long weekend and let other chefs do the cooking.

Upon arriving from Los Angeles, the bride- and groom-to-be joined me for a great meal under the stars at 315 Restaurant & Wine Bar. Good food and service seems to be the theme here; I always feel spoiled and trust the staff's deft suggestions to try wines outside my comfort zone.

I'm sad to think that the squash-blossom season is nearly over; I can't quite get past the temptation to order the 315 version with their ethereal light batter and rich goat-cheese fondue whenever I'm there. My sliced duck breast served over a potato galette sautéed in duck fat and finished with tart dried cherries was delicious, but made me wonder if I would, two days later, squeeze into the new suit I had bought for the occasion.

Our first group meal, with the out-of-town guests finally assembled, was Friday lunch at La Casa Sena. Our two large tables were set in the charming courtyard, but after spicy Bloody Marias were served, the fluffy clouds overhead looked ready to burst.

Our accommodating waiter suggested we move to one of the interior rooms and effortlessly helped us make the transition and get settled. Once inside, he quickly took our order and seamlessly continued his excellent service throughout the afternoon — a real pro. Everyone was very happy with the meal, and chef Patrick Gharrity stopped by the table to check on us.

The rehearsal dinner took place at Rio Chama Steakhouse. We had planned to hold it in the courtyard, but those pesky gray clouds still threatened. So the party was moved into a private room called The Baca House, which was beautifully decked out and a great place for raucous speeches and emotional toasts.

I thought that chef Tom Kerpon had taken leave of his senses by letting our large group choose from the entire menu, but the food and service were perfect and arrived in a timely fashion despite the fact the restaurant was hopping with Friday night business. My crunchy soft-shelled crab appetizer and main-course lamb chops were delicious. I hoped I could leave the bottom button of the suit open the next day.

Two years ago, when the now-defunct Baleen restaurant opened at the Inn and Spa at Loretto, my business card was drawn to win a night in the presidential suite high atop the downtown hotel. Despite the fact the hotel has since changed ownership, the new management, Destination Hotels and Resorts, was kind enough to honor my prize — and, even better, allowed me to use the prize the same weekend my friends were there for their wedding.

Trust me when I say that this was the most fabulous suite I have ever seen, much less stayed in — 2,800 square feet with 360-degree views of Santa Fe, balconies in all directions, a huge living room, formal dining room, complete gourmet kitchen, pool-table room and a separate bedroom, up one flight of circular stairs. If you want to feel like royalty or a celeb, this is the place to stay. (I heard Mikhail Gorbachev slept there during his recent visit to Santa Fe.)

The wedding couple managed to escape relatively early, but the remaining revelers partied on to the wee hours.

Breakfast by the pool revived us and helped us chill out prior to the 6 p.m. wedding at the beautiful Las Campanas home of the bride's parents. The weather cooperated, I managed to fit into the suit, the vows were lovely and heartfelt, and I didn't loose the ring.

The candlelit reception was catered by Peas 'n' Pod Catering — more skilled service and luscious beef tenderloin wrapped in puffed pastry.

For a farewell brunch on a drizzly Sunday we returned to Rio Chama and the comfy bar to relive every memorable moment of the weekend over big burgers and Kerpon's wonderful spin on eggs benedict, here with duck hash and a jalapeño hollandaise. I went home and hung that suit safely in the closet where it belongs.

There are three things that last — good food, good service and good friends — and the greatest of these is friends.


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