Tomatoes have always been linked to summer, and since I've owned Kaune Foodtown, I've noticed that more varieties typically appear in the store right around the summer solstice — the longest day of the year in North America. From that day forward and for many weeks to come, fresh tomatoes of all shapes and sizes are brightly colored and heavy with juicy meat that seems to melt in your mouth.

Not so this year. Most varieties of tomatoes were likely being plowed under and destroyed on that summer solstice day in June because of the warning issued at that time by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration — albeit without conclusive evidence. Several weeks ago, the FDA removed the warning — but not before an estimated $100 million in losses was suffered by the tomato-growing industry. Still, beefsteak, roma, red plum and cherry tomatoes are now reappearing in the market.

One of the last times tomatoes received such widespread attention was in the late 19th century, but for an entirely different reason. That was when the question of the tomato's botanical classification — whether it a fruit or a vegetable — was addressed.

The question had to do with more than trivia; it involved money owed the government for import duties. The Tariff Act of 1883, which levied a tax on imported tomatoes, was challenged on the grounds that only vegetables — not fruit — were included in the act. In the end, the question came down to what was intended by the Tariff Act rather than any firm botanical classification.

Tomatoes are, indeed, fruit; they are the berry of a variety of nightshade plant that is native to South America. While it is unclear when they were introduced to North America, we know that tomatoes enjoyed widespread distribution by Spanish settlers. Full adoption as a food came much later when European immigrants demanded them for their recipes from home.

Today, tomatoes are only second to potatoes in annual produce consumption.

It seems clear why: tomatoes can be fried, baked, broiled, grilled, scalloped and stuffed. Their high acid content brings out the flavor in accompanying foods and makes them easy to preserve, either by themselves or in chutneys, marmalades or jellies.

Some varieties, which range from fingertip-size currant tomatoes to giant beefsteaks, are available fresh year-round from hot-house and hydroponic growers. Dried, they can be found in cellophane bags or packed in olive oil. Canned tomatoes — usually cooked before becoming purée, paste or whole-peeled — have the longest shelf-life.

Much has been written about cancer prevention and lycopene — the reputed antioxidant responsible for its red color. Unfortunately, some of the data are now being questioned. What isn't disputed, however, is the fact that tomatoes contain good amounts of Vitamin A and C. According to the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, tomatoes contribute more Vitamin A and C and other nutrients to the American diet than do other fruits and vegetables because the volume of tomatoes consumed is so high.

Selection and usage

Select fresh tomatoes that are firm, heavy and fragrant. Never refrigerate tomatoes; they lose flavor and fragrance almost immediately. I purchase several varieties to create a bright centerpiece, using and replacing them as they become fully ripe. In summer or winter, my kitchen is never without fresh tomatoes.

Beefsteak tomatoes, especially those served straight from the garden when they are still warm from the sun, are best simply sliced and lightly dressed with vinaigrette.

The choice for drying is the roma variety. To dry, slice in half lengthwise, scoop out the seeds and place cut-side down on clean oven racks or a cookie sheet. Set the oven to its lowest setting — about 200 degrees or less — and leave them in the oven, with the door closed, for 8 to 10 hours. They can then be put in a jar with fresh herbs and covered with olive oil. The tangy, chewy tomatoes are a great year-round addition to salads, casseroles and other fresh or baked dishes.

If a recipe calls for peeled fresh tomatoes, drop them in boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds. Once removed from the water, the peel can be slipped off with a sharp knife.

To seed a fresh tomato, cut it in half crosswise, hold one half in your palm with the cut side exposed and lightly squeeze out the seeds and juice.

Every fall, as the nights begin to get cold, my few potted tomato plants are still teeming with green fruit. Tomatoes will not mature in cool overnight temperatures so this is the time I remove them from the vine. It's difficult to ripen them further once they have been harvested, but I have had varying levels of success with two methods: Place green tomatoes in a paper bag containing an apple and leave them for one to two weeks. Alternatively, place them on a bed of crumpled newspaper, put a ripe tomato among the green, and top with more crumpled newspaper.

If your tomatoes are still green after two weeks, use them in your favorite apple pie recipe by substituting half the sliced apples with green tomato slices whose large seeds have been removed.

Tomatoes love garlic

The Catalans of northern Spain have one of the easiest and most flavorful methods of using fresh tomatoes: Cut a clove of garlic in half and rub the cut side across a piece of bread that has been grilled or toasted. Halve a tomato and rub the cut side on the toast while squeezing to spread the juice and flesh, and then drizzle the toast with olive oil. The garlic and the meaty part of the tomato combine to provide a combination of sharp and mild flavor.

Here is a recipe for Spanish gazpacho from a small town near Granada in the southern part of Spain. The recipe was passed down from generation to generation and was only committed to paper when an inquisitive foreigner requested it. According to Asunción, the family matriarch, there is no need to peel the tomatoes or seed the cucumber because they will be strained out. She seasonally adjusts the amount of tomatoes depending on their ripeness.

GAZPACHO DE ASUNCIÓN
(Serves 6)

Center of 1/3 to 1/2 of a two-day-old baguette broken into pieces, about 1/2 cup
8 ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped
2 cloves garlic
1 large cucumber, peeled and roughly chopped
1 green bell pepper, stem removed, roughly chopped
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup (or to taste) sherry vinegar de Jerez

Combine first six ingredients in a food processor and process in batches until it becomes liquid. Press through a strainer and discard the pulp. Add vinegar to taste. Chill and serve in small glasses or bowls. Makes about six one-cup servings.