Yummy, chocolaty and gooey, Nutella is a sumptuous, spreadable concoction based on chocolate, sugar and hazelnuts that has become a cultural culinary phenomenon throughout the world.

The Italian filmmaker Nanna Moretti used the spread as the focal point of a scene in Bianca, in which a character eats from a gigantic jar of Nutella to relieve his post-coital anxieties. It was in 1984, shortly after the opening of Moretti's film, that the company's advertising slogan "Che Sarebbe il Mondo Senza Nutella" was launched.

Most popularly spread on bread or toast, Nutella is often compared to peanut butter. However, worldwide it outsells all brands of peanut butter combined. In Italy alone — only one of the countries where Nutella is presently produced — more than 180 tons of Nutella are consumed annually, the equivalent of 55 million jars. Feb. 6, 2007, marked the first "World Nutella Day" in Rome, Italy — a day dedicated to Nutella lovers and all things Nutella.

There are now two "Nutelleria," best described as fast-food chains for Nutella in Europe — the original in Bologna, Italy, and the other in Frankfurt, Germany — where all things Nutella are served, from the traditional filled crêpes and brioche, to the inventive Nutella hamburger (a filled doughnut), Nutella cappuccino, Nutella pudding and the pizza Nutella with various additional toppings. It's the quintessential Nutella addict's paradise.

Italians and other Europeans grew up eating Nutella.

"Mamma, Nutella" is commonly heard whenever an Italian child spots and points to the distinctive label. And many an adult can remember sitting on the sofa with a jar and a big spoon, or sneaking into the pantry away from prying eyes to find the Nutella jar and begin the sacred rite.

For some, it's the perfect comfort food — it's said to relieve depression and loneliness — and for others, it is an uncontrollable, devouring passion. But what is this magical concoction that non-Europeans are only beginning to recognize?

Nutella is a modified form of gianduja (jon-du-ja), a combination of rich chocolate and about 50 percent hazelnut paste developed in the Piedmont region of Italy after excessive taxes on cocoa beans hindered the consumption of chocolate.

In 1946, Pietro Ferrero — who owned a patisserie (pastry shop) in Alba, Italy — began selling solid blocks of "pasta gianduja." In 1951 Ferrero sold the first spreadable version of the concoction, called "supercrema gianduja." In 1964, Pietro's son Michele revamped the original supercrema, modified its composition with the intention of marketing it Europe-wide, and renamed it Nutella, based on the words "nut" and "ella," which refers to something good.

The exact recipe for commercially produced Nutella is a closely guarded secret, but the main ingredients are sugar and modified vegetable oils, with hazelnuts, cocoa and skimmed milk powder comprising the remaining 28 percent of the product. The recipe for Nutella varies in different countries, with Italy's version using less sugar than most other formulations.

Promoted in Italy as part of a balanced and healthy breakfast with milk, fruit and toast, a tablespoon of Nutella contains roughly 100 calories, equal to that of peanut butter

In the United States, the most frequently marketed size of Nutella is a 13-ounce jar, but you can sometimes find it in amounts as small as 90 grams (just over 3 ounces) — perfect for that really big hit on your morning toast and equivalent to almost 500 calories. In Italy and France, it's possible to find jars up to 5 Kg (about 11 pounds), possibly for commercial use — or maybe the quintessential Nutella bash.

Whatever the size of your Nutella passion, you can find a jar to handle it.

Allora (So) — Che sarebbe il mondo senza Nutella? What would the world be without Nutella? Undoubtedly, for many, molto amaro (very bitter).


Following are some tempting recipes for Nutella lovers to enjoy beyond spreading it on their morning toast. Also included is a recipe for "crema di gianduja" for those who want to eat the pure and original, home-style version.

Keep in mind Nutella and homemade gianduja are not always interchangeable in recipes, as consistency and ingredients differ, producing different results. Homemade gianduja will also have a grainier texture due to the less-finely ground hazelnuts — so make substitutions only where specified.

CREMA DI GIANDUJA OR GIANDUJA CREAM
(Makes about 1-1/2 cups)

2-1/2 ounces lightly toasted and skinned hazelnuts
4 ounces high-quality semi- or bittersweet chocolate, such as Callebaut, Valrhona or El Rey*
1/8 cup sugar (optional for a sweeter version)
2.5 ounces unsalted butter
1/4 to 1/2 cup heavy cream (larger amount for a more spreadable gianduja)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a baking pan toast hazelnuts in one layer in middle of oven 10 to 15 minutes, or until lightly colored and the skins are blistered.

Wrap nuts in a kitchen towel and let steam 1 minute. Rub nuts in towel to remove loose skins. (Don't worry about skins that don't come off.) Cool to room temperature.

Chop the chocolate fine, and grind the hazelnuts to a fine powder in a food processor.

Heat the sugar, unsalted butter, heavy cream and sugar (if using) in the top of a double boiler until the butter is melted and the sugar is well dissolved. Add the chocolate and nuts and continue heating, stirring continuously, until the chocolate is fully melted.

Store covered in a jar in the refrigerator for 2-3 weeks. The gianduja will be more liquid if allowed to return to room temperature before using.

*The quality and sugar content of the chocolate used will dictate the final result — chose your favorite. Though not gianduja as originally conceived, even milk chocolate can be used.

CHOCOLATE-NUTELLA SANDWICH COOKIES
(Makes about 36 sandwich cookies)

2-1/3 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
2 sticks (16 tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened
6 ounces finest semi- or bittersweet chocolate, melted (Callebaut, Valrhona or El Rey recommended)
About 1-1/2 cups Nutella or homemade gianduja for filling
Confectioners' sugar for dusting

Combine the flour, salt and cloves in a bowl; stir well to mix.

In another bowl, beat the butter with a wooden spoon or standing mixer until it is soft and creamy. Beat in the cooled chocolate until the mixture is smooth. With a wooden spoon or rubber spatula, gently fold in the flour mixture to create a smooth dough.

Scrape the dough onto a piece of plastic wrap and shape it into a rectangle, about 1/2-inch thick. Wrap and chill the dough until it is firm, about an hour.

When you are ready to bake the cookies, set an oven rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper.

Divide the dough in half and return the half you are not working with to the refrigerator.

Place the first half on a floured work surface. If the dough is hard, pound it gently with a rolling pin to soften it slightly, then flour the surface of the dough and roll it out about 3/16-inch thick. (If the dough has been refrigerated for more than an hour it will be difficult to roll. Allow it to warm to a workable consistency before rolling.)

Cut out the cookies with a fluted 1-1/2 to 2-inch cutter. Place them on the prepared cookie sheet, leaving about an inch around in all directions. Repeat with the remaining dough, saving the scraps. Reroll all the scraps and cut more cookies.

Bake the cookies for about 15 minutes, or until they are dull in appearance. Cool the cookies on the pan for a few minutes, then remove to a rack until fully cooled.

To sandwich the cooled cookies, turn half the cookies over, flat bottom side up. Spoon or pipe a healthy teaspoon of Nutella or gianduja on each; top with remaining cookies, right side up so they are bottom to bottom.

Store cookies between sheets of parchment or wax paper in a container with a tight-fitting lid.

Dust generously with confectioners' sugar before serving.

(Cookie portion of recipe adapted from Cookies Unlimited by Nick Maglieri, Harper Collins, 2002)

NUTELLA-RICOTTA CRÊPES
(Makes 18)

For the crêpes:
2 cups cold milk
4 eggs
Pinch of salt
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour (or chestnut flour, available in some specialty food shops or via the Internet)
1 to 2 tablespoons butter for cooking
For the filling:
2/3 cup raisins
1/2 cup light rum
15 ounces ricotta
2 tablespoons sugar
2/3 cup Nutella or homemade gianduja
Garnishes:
1 to 2 cups heavy cream, whipped with 2 tablespoons sugar
Chocolate curls and confectioners' sugar

Soak the raisins in the rum for about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, whisk the eggs with the milk until well combined. Then gradually sift in the flour and salt, whisking all the while, until the mixture is evenly blended and smooth. If there are any remaining lumps, put the mixture through a fine sieve. Cover and let rest in a cool place or the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

Place the ricotta in another bowl and beat in the sugar and Nutella until thoroughly combined. Drain the raisins and mix gently until well distributed. Cover and refrigerate until needed.

Melt the butter and remove from heat. Place an 8-inch skillet or crêpe pan on medium-low heat and lightly brush with the butter. Stir the batter well and pour 2 tablespoons of it into the pan. Tilt and rotate the pan to distribute the batter evenly. As soon as the batter sets and becomes firm and speckled brown, slip a spatula underneath it and flip it over to cook the other side.

Stack the finished crêpes on a plate between sheets of wax paper. Repeat with the remaining batter, coating the skillet and stirring the batter each time before putting it into the pan.

The crêpes can be made several hours or even days in advance and kept refrigerated. They will also freeze well for up to a month. Bring to room temperature before filling and serving.

To fill and serve: Spread each crêpe with 2 to 3 tablespoons of the filling mixture. Fold in half, then fold again. Place on serving plates and garnish with the whipped cream and chocolate curls if desired. Dust with confectioners' sugar.

HOT NUTELLA
(Serves 4)

2 cups whole milk
3 tablespoons sugar
4 tablespoons Nutella
Whipped cream, cinnamon, marshmallows and/or cocoa powder for garnish, if desired

In a small bowl mix the Nutella with the sugar. In a saucepan, heat the milk until warmed, then add a few spoonfuls to the Nutella mixture. Blend well.

Add the Nutella mixture to the milk in the saucepan, mix well and bring just to a boil.

Divide hot Nutella into 4 serving cups and garnish as desired.




* Mix to desired taste and consistency with mascarpone cheese and use as a filling for tortes, or as a dip or spread. Do the same with whipped cream for frosting and filling tortes.

* Spread some Nutella or gianduja on the bottom crust of your next cream pie; it's especially good with banana.

* Poached pears and Nutella!

* Check the Internet for more recipes.



Christine Y. Hickman is a chef, caterer and teacher of Italian cuisine who lives half the year in the Umbria region of Italy and half the year in Santa Fe. Contact her at 983-6754.