At the Santa Fe Farmers Market, eggs range in color from common white to beautiful shades of green, blue, pale turquoise and brown. The egg-laying birds whose bounty is available at the market include geese, African guinea hens, ducks, plain old hens and the Araucana chicken, which originated in South America. The Araucana's blue, green and turquoise eggs attract plenty of attention.

One recent Saturday at the Market, I was drawn to the wide array of colorful eggs on Kenneth Baltz's table. Baltz, who owns and operates KJ Farms about seven miles south of Abiquiú, raises Araucana hens. His casual yet knowledgeable manner was as impressive as the dozens of eggs displayed on his table.

Baltz has been raising chickens for eight years. He began selling "big time" six years ago. Baltz says he loves raising chickens and enjoys being self-employed, and he's been bringing his eggs to the Santa Fe Farmers Market for 2-1/2 years.

Baltz was quick to point out that he doesn't deal in only chicken eggs. He also has duck eggs, which he says are very rich flavor — and are especially popular with people who are allergic to chicken eggs. There is one rooster to every 10 to 15 hens on the KJ Farm, so the eggs are sold fertile.

"They are much better for you than non-fertile eggs," Baltz said. "The fertile egg is higher in the good cholesterol and lower in the bad and has a much better protein."

As we talked, I wondered what happens to his chickens when they live beyond their egg-laying years. Were they relegated to the pot? No, he said emphatically — his chickens reach old age because his wife will not let him kill them.

"I eat chicken, but my wife won't let me eat my own," he said with a laugh. "So the coyotes sort of thin me out of my older and sick ones. The coyotes and I have a good understanding."

Although Baltz was born and raised on a farm, he didn't begin raising chickens until after he retired.

He has 835 chickens on his farm, and in a few weeks there will be 600 new baby chicks. He now collects 25 dozen eggs a day and is anticipating more when the chicks are about six months old.

"But right now I can't keep the eggs," he said. "I sell about 300 dozen eggs every week. I'm at the market in Santa Fe every Saturday and also do the Los Alamos market on Thursdays. I don't have any eggs left for the Tuesday market in Santa Fe."

Kameshwari Kate, who was buying Araucana eggs from Baltz, said she often buys eggs at the market. She loves fresh eggs and buys from different vendors. Kate travels and has been to many farmers markets, but says that New Mexico has some of the most magnificent eggs, which she presumes might have something to do with the elevation and the great amount of sunshine.

Eggs at the market are a bit more expensive than in stores, but that doesn't seem to stop people from purchasing them. Even at $4 to $5.50 per dozen, they're a healthy, inexpensive source of protein. Baltz says the eggs on his table are no more than two days old.

Becky Thorp, who owns Sunstar Herbs, has about 50 chickens and brings between six dozen and eight dozen eggs to the market each week. The majority of eggs she sells are from her Araucana chickens.

"They're supposed to be lower in cholesterol than other eggs," Thorp said.

Barbara Mann and Wendy McGuire own Gallina del Sol Farm outside Stanley, N.M. Mann said they started with chickens and just kept going, adding pheasants, peacocks, turkeys, geese and African spotted guinea hens. Eggs from the Guinea hens are small, brown and pointed on top. The yolk is creamy, and they're rather tasty when boiled.

Although there are six regular egg vendors, Santa Fe Farmers Market manager Mike Judge says pretty much everyone has at least a few dozen eggs to sell.

Recipes

THE PERFECT FLAN

(Makes 6 servings)

1-3/4 cups whipping cream

1 cup whole milk (do not use low-fat or nonfat)

Pinch of salt

1 half vanilla bean, split lengthwise

1 cup sugar

1/3 cup water

3 large eggs

2 large egg yolks

7 tbs. sugar

Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 350 Fahrenheit. Combine cream, milk and salt in heavy-bottomed medium saucepan. Scrape seeds from vanilla bean into cream mixture; add bean. Bring to simmer over medium heat. Remove from heat; let vanilla steep 30 minutes.

Combine 1 cup sugar and 1/3 cup water in another heavy-bottom medium saucepan. Stir over low heat until sugar dissolves. Increase heat to high and cook, without stirring, until syrup turns deep amber, brushing down sides of pan with wet pastry brush and swirling occasionally for 10 minutes. Pour caramel into six 3/4-cup ramekins.

Using oven mitts, immediately tilt each ramekin to coat sides. Set ramekins into 13 x 9 x 2 inch baking pan. Whisk eggs, egg yolks and 7 tbs. sugar in medium bowl until just blended. Gradually whisk cream mixture into egg mixture without creating lots of foam. Pour custard through small sieve into prepared ramekins, dividing evenly.

Pour enough hot water into baking pan to come halfway up sides of ramekins. Bake until centers are gently set, about 40 minutes. Transfer to rack and cool. Chill until cold, about 2 hours. Cover and chill overnight.

To serve, run small, sharp knife around flan to loosen. Turn over onto plate. Shake gently to release. Lift off ramekin, allowing syrup to run over flan. Repeat with remaining flans. Flan may be prepared two days before serving.

Recipe courtesy of www.bonappetit.com.

* * *

BARBARA MANN'S SHIRRED EGGS

(Makes 2 servings)

2 turkey eggs

2 tbs. heavy cream

Parmesan cheese

Chives

Butter an individual ceramic custard dish and crack two turkey eggs (chicken eggs are fine, but Mann says turkey eggs fit just right) into it. Put 2 tbs. heavy cream on top. Sprinkle with parmesan cheese and chives. Bake in a 300 to 350 degree oven for about 10 minutes or until the eggs set. They should be soft, but not raw.

Recipe courtesy of Barbara Mann.

* * *

OLD FASHIONED SPOON BREAD

(Makes 4 to 6 servings)

3/4 cup cornmeal, stone ground or water ground, if possible

1 tsp. salt

1 cup boiling water

3 tbs. butter, melted

2 large eggs

1 cup milk

2 tsp. baking powder

Preheat oven to 350 Fahrenheit. Generously grease an 8 x 8 inch glass or ceramic baking dish. Combine the cornmeal and salt in a medium bowl. Stirring constantly, gradually add the boiling water. Stir until smooth and no lumps are left. Stir in the melted butter.

In a separate bowl, beat the eggs until no bits of yolk or egg white remain. Add the milk to the eggs and beat until combined. Add the egg mixture to the cornmeal mixture and stir until combined. Sprinkle the cornmeal mixture with the baking powder and whisk to blend. Turn the mixture into the prepared baking dish.

Bake for 30 minutes or until firm. Serve spoon bread with lots of butter.

Recipe from Joy of Cooking.

For more information about the Santa Fe Farmers Market, call Mike Judge at 983-4098 or visit www.santafefarmersmarket.com.