I sometimes wonder how many people avoid figs because they have only tasted Fig Newtons — the soft biscuit cookies wrapped around gooey fig paste. Years ago, before health foods were widely available, Fig Newtons were bought by mothers like my own who wanted to provide healthier alternatives to the sugary snack foods we kids loved. Then, when given the choice, I picked a Heyday or a Mystic Mint cookie over a Fig Newton.

Both figs and I have come a long way since then. Fresh figs are now one of my favorite summer fruits. And figs have reached new heights of sophistication, with celebrity chefs designing signature dishes around the fresh and dried fruit. Trendy restaurants such as The Girl and the Fig in California and Figs in Boston have relegated mass-produced fig cookies to family memories.

For me, it's no coincidence that the July 4 holiday is the kick-off to barbecue season. If we are lucky, it is the time fresh figs begin to appear in the market, and figs are one of the first things to go on my grill. Fresh figs are available from late June to early fall and they herald the beginning of summer.

Figs, which are native to countries surrounding the Mediterranean, were introduced to North America by Spanish Franciscan missionaries who planted them at the California missions they founded. For this reason, the early black variety and its progeny are called mission figs. Later, in the 19th century, the Turkish Smyrna variety was brought to California's Central Valley. In honor of its new home, the California Smyrna was renamed Calimyrna.

Here in New Mexico, we grow a bush-like variety that arrived with immigrants in the last century.


Figs are actually the flowers of the fig tree. Under the skin of what we call fruit are many small flowers — thread-like strands that hold the seeds and are only seen if the fig is cut open. Seeds, the part of the fig that people either love or hate, vary in size depending on the variety. Some — like Kadota figs — are almost seedless, making them the choice for commercial canning.

Because of their sweet flavor, fresh figs go well with salty, fiery and pungent foods. Salty meats like proscuitto, strong cheeses such as gorgonzola and Roquefort, and pungent greens like arugula are natural accompaniments.

To grill figs, slice them in half lengthwise, baste the cut sides with a little olive oil and place them face down on a hot grill for one to two minutes until they begin to soften. Don't cook them for too long or they will become mushy. If you do not have a grill, arrange basted, halved figs on a baking sheet and roast at 350 degrees for about 12 to 15 minutes. Toss with a splash of fig or balsamic vinegar. Grilled fresh figs are great on a salad of fresh spinach or arugula.

For a special appetizer, drop a teaspoon of goat cheese on the cut side of a halved, uncooked fig and wrap proscuitto around it, securing the bundle with a toothpick. Broil each side for 2 to 3 minutes or grill each side for 1 to 2 minutes, allowing the cheese to melt. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Fresh figs, which are highly perishable, should be stored in the refrigerator and used within two to three days of purchase.


Because fresh figs have a short shelf life and are only available in the summer, most growers dry figs to allow the harvest to be spread over the entire year.

Some 90 percent of the world's figs are dried. Dried figs are moist and chewy with seeds that have more crunch than those in fresh figs. The taste is also sweeter than that of fresh figs.

Select dried figs that are soft to the touch. Figs purchased in enclosed bags are moister and often last longer than figs that are exposed to air in bulk bins. Stored in an air-tight jar, dried figs should last at least six months. If figs should become white on the outside, don't throw them out; this is just crystallized sugar. Run them under warm water or microwave briefly. Steaming will also remove the crystals and make the figs plump.

Dried figs can be messy to chop, leaving the sticky sugars on the cutting knife. This can be minimized by cutting dried figs when they are cold. Simply put them into the freezer or refrigerator for an hour or so, and cutting will be smooth and easy.

Dried figs can be used all year when fresh figs aren't available. Chopped into coarse pieces, they add flavor to green salads, rice pilaf, couscous and stuffing for roasted meats.


I use fig preserves to flavor balsamic vinegar reduction, or to make vinaigrette or marinade for meat.

For the reduction add 1/4-cup fig preserves to 1 cup of balsamic vinegar in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer until the mixture is reduced by half, stirring frequently.

When cool, use the fig-balsamic reduction on everything from ice cream to steamed vegetables. The reduction can be strained for use on vegetables but I like to leave the fig chunks in when using the reduction over ice cream.

For those who prefer a shortcut, specialty-food purveyors have created a black fig vinegar that can be used right out of the bottle on sliced fruit, vegetables and desserts.


Fresh fig and chicken kabobs have an Old-World feel.

(Serves 4)

1 tablespoon fig preserves (omit if using fig vinegar)

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar or fig vinegar

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon chopped chives

Salt and pepper to taste

4 half chicken breasts, skinned and boned

8 fresh figs

Mix the preserves and mustard in a small bowl. Whisk in vinegar, and then oil. Add chopped chives, salt and pepper. Cut chicken breasts into 1-1/2-inch cubes. Cut figs in half lengthwise. Toss chicken and figs in the marinade and skewer them on kabob skewers, placing a fig half after two chicken cubes. Grill on barbecue about 3 to 4 minutes each side. Serve immediately over couscous, rice or salad greens.

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12 dried Caliymrna figs

2 ounces goat cheese

6 walnuts

2 tablespoons fig vinegar

Cut the top off each fig about 1/8-inch from the stem. Using a knife, cut into the center from the stem end to create a hole. Stuff about 3/4-teaspoon of goat cheese inside. Insert half a walnut into the cheese. Toss stuffed figs in vinegar to coat.

What: Annual Summer Celebration at Kaune Foodtown with free sampls of more than 25 local and specialty products.

When: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. July 12

Where: Kaune Foodtown, 511 Old Santa Fe Trail, across from the Roundhouse at the intersection of Old Santa Fe Trail and Paseo de Peralta

Santa Fe native Cheryl Pick Sommer is the owner of Kaune Foodtown, 511 Old Santa Fe Trail.