Chef Pramod "Paddy" Rawal says the most unique aspect of his Indian restaurant, Raaga Fine Indian Dining, is "the diversity of the diners and the awareness locals have about various ethnic cuisine." Because his regular patrons are well-traveled and knowledgeable about other countries, Rawal says he's able to be more experimental with his menu of traditional Indian cuisine.

"When I opened this restaurant, I tried to cater to the demographics of this environment," Rawal said. "I use only fresh products and spices that I meld without overpowering the food."

Rawal has also adopted spices associated with New Mexican cuisine and created flavor combinations hard to find elsewhere.

At Raaga, which opened in April, a diner's palate first encounters Rawal's delicately blended spices, which are subdued in complexity but never bland. With a selection of heat levels to choose from, diners can enjoy a diversified menu, which includes modern-fusion dishes and familiar Indian fare.

"I travel a lot to find good ingredients," Rawal said.

In addition to using locally grown produce, Rawal searches for spices at select markets in Toronto and New York, where he visits frequently.

Raaga offers an elaborate à la carte lunch and dinner menu with plenty of vegetarian and vegan options to choose from. Some of Rawal's favorites include Delhi chaat, an appetizer of chickpeas, whole-wheat crisps, mint chutney and sweetened yogurt ($4.95), and lasooni gobhi, a dish of cauliflower florets tossed in garlic sauce ($5.95).

For dinner, Rawal offers surmai kofta, a plate of vegetable dumplings and fenugreek in cashew-cream sauce ($12.95); bagare baingan, an eggplant entrée served with a mustard, peanut and coconut sauce ($13.95); and ancho-amchur crusted tandoori chicken ($12.95). For dessert, Rawal recommends the jamun-style, honey-soaked milk puffs ($4.95).

Raaga also features a buffet Monday through Saturday ($8.95 for adults, $6.95 for children), with takeout boxes available; a Sunday buffet is also offered ($9.95 for adults, $7.95 for children).

Rawal, originally from Mumbai, India, has fallen in love with Santa Fe. He has long-term plans to live in the city, and is considering retiring here. "This place is very different," Rawal said. "Santa Fe is so rich in education and culture."

Long before graduating from culinary school in India, where he majored in hotel management, catering technology and applied nutrition, Rawal knew his destiny was intertwined with food.

"Being a chef was never my first choice," Rawal admitted. Even though he never had "the skills or the grades" to pursue a different profession, as he put it, he gained approval from his parents to follow his passion in the culinary arts.

"My mother and father said, 'Son, it's OK. Do what comes naturally to you with commitment and passion.' " Rawal's father then followed with the adage: "He who is richest is content, and content is the wealth of nature."

"I'm glad I listened to them," Rawa lsaid.

Fluent in five languages — French, English, Hindi, Gujarati and Sindhi, not including some German, Italian and Sanskrit — Rawal came to America in 2001 with $100 in his pocket. "My plan always was to prove to the world that this country was the land of opportunity," Rawal said.

Rawal concurrently runs a Mumbai restaurant in Michigan in addition to Raaga. Rawal also has plans to open two more restaurants and expand the dining room at Raaga.

As a testament to Raaga's success, Abul Islan, a local writer, exclaimed, "Business has been excellent."

Even at lunchtime in late April, which usually a slow time for man restaurants in town, Raaga is packed with customers. However, it is still not a cause for over-excitement, Rawal said.

"I come from a country with a billion people. If I see an empty spot, I am never satisfied," he said. "If I say that I am satisfied, I am putting a limit on my potential."

Rawal expects to earn his citizenship in 2012, "in time to vote for the presidency," he said. In the meantime, he counts the blessings he has received since moving to Santa Fe. "I am grateful for the community and for the support they have given me since I opened the restaurant," he said.

IF YOU GO

What: Raaga Fine Indian Dining

Where: 544 Agua Fría St., 820-6440

When: Lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Sunday through Friday; dinner, 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 5 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Info: Visit www.raagacuisine.com