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Three days in the wilderness
Even in the rough, you can still eat like a king

Beverly Levitt | For The New Mexican
Posted: Tuesday, June 23, 2009
- 6/23/09
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While my friends glorify camping as the ultimate communion with nature, I unabashedly admit that my favorite part of the activity is eating. Whether it's memories of John Wayne sitting by the campfire — sipping steaming coffee from a tin cup with bacon and eggs sizzling in a fry pan nearby — the delicious thought of dining in the great outdoors is enough to make me head for the hills.

But because I am an impromptu Epicurean who never makes a recipe the same way twice, my gastronomic navigation through nature was, at first, a bit perplexing. At home I have the luxury of raiding my garden, dragging everything out of the cupboards and fridge, then deciding what to make. When you're out in the wilderness, what you see in your pack is what you've got.

I remember my art professor saying that before a painter can master abstract expressionism he must first learn to paint classically. It's the same with wilderness cooking. So I called in the experts. I first debriefed wilderness cooking instructor Corey Freyer and backpacking coordinator Frankie Farrell. I unmercifully quizzed my cousin, who spent her formative years on hiking trails, and then I hit the books. Everyone had ideas about how to shop, how to organize, what to pack and how and the necessity of lists. That was easy. But how was I to carry my improvisational attitude from my kitchen to the forest? That was the real challenge, until I realized that if you're organized and have the luxury of a cooler, anything is possible.

Know the essentials

Camping foods can be divided into three categories — basics, bailouts and bonuses — and they should be packed separately.

Basics: Essential items you need no matter the menu, including olive oil, butter, nonstick vegetable spray, bread, coffee and tea, sugar, basic spices, non-fat milk powder and bottled water.

Bailouts: These often-dehydrated foods are good to have on hand when weather, exhaustion or illness eradicate your inventiveness and all you want are some quick calories before you crawl into your sleeping bag . Or when you're in the middle of a great hike and the last thing you want to do is stop and wait for the pan to heat.

Bonuses:
I'm a much happier camper if I have chile oil; balsamic vinegar; herbes de Provence; sun-dried tomatoes; fresh garlic; candied ginger; Dijon mustard; sesame seeds; fresh Parmesan cheese; parsley, basil, and thyme; mango chutney; sparkling water; a few half bottles of Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Champagne and some cabernet sauvignon; and a mini bottle of brandy for after-dinner coffee.

Rely on checklists

List all non-food items: cooking equipment, fuel, utensils, storage containers (including different sized zipper storage bags and hard plastic bottles). Decide on your menus; compile a list of ingredients to purchase, then a checklist for each recipe, to make sure you don't forget anything while packing. Keep checklists of favorite foods and recipes; keep adding to them after every trip.

Packing tips

Take packaged and boxed food out of thick paper or plastic; repackage in light, plastic re-sealable bags. Label packages; include recipes if necessary. Remove canned or glass-bottled food to leak proof, hard plastic bottles and jars — except the liquor, which should be placed in a wine carrier or packed very carefully with padding around it.

Since you must carry out what you carried in — including cans, peels, cores and seeds — keep cans of soda to a minimum and think twice before taking apples, oranges, bananas, cucumber and avocados, unless you enjoy the smell of aging rinds. The best trail drinks are powdered ones like lemon or orangeade, coffee, and tea.

To make vegetables last longer, don't cut, wash, or wrap them in plastic. Brown paper bags are best. Except for lettuce greens and fresh herbs, which are happier in a Ziploc bag with a wet paper towel over them.If you take squishy produce, such as avocados, tomatoes, bananas, or summer fruits, pack in a hard plastic container or a pot.

Hard cheeses such as Swiss or cheddar last longer, and are not as easily bruised as the soft variety. If you want Brie or Camembert, put it inside a hard plastic container. A piece of good Parmesan will last forever and pep up almost any dish.

Healthy hiking

It's important to be adequately hydrated. Take up to 2 quarts of water per person per day. Before you leave, fill a plastic bottle 3/4 full, put in freezer but don't put top on tight. As you're walking it will defrost and you'll have lovely cold water to drink or use to keep cool.

Forget counting calories. Since any good hike will exhaust an abundant amount, you can afford foods higher in fat. On longer hikes it's recommended you take in 20 percent more calories. Fruits, nuts and seeds are popular. Energy bars are excellent as they are light to carry and give extra stamina.

Buy quality supplies

Invest in good camping cookware, pot grippers, lightweight plates, cups, silverware, utensils such as a cheese grater, spatula, vegetable peeler, measuring cups which can double as drinking cups, cutting boards, plastic egg holders. If you love good coffee, look into miniature espresso machines and coffee grinders. The new Outback ovens can turn your camping stove into a convection oven to bake pizza and bread.

Recipes

FRUIT AND NUT GRANOLA

(Makes 6 to 8 servings)

1-1/2 cups oat flakes

1-1/2 cups wheat flakes

1/4 cup honey

1/4 cup dark molasses

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 cup canola oil

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1 cup wheat germ

1/2 cup raw almonds, coarsely chopped

1/2 cup raw cashews, coarsely chopped

1/2-cup sesame seeds

3/4 cup raisins

1/2 cup dried pineapple, cut into tidbits

1/2 cup dried apples, chopped

Mix oat and wheat flakes with honey, molasses, cinnamon, oil, salt. Spread thinly on cookie sheet. Bake 15 to 20 minutes at 300, until lightly browned. Stir frequently while baking to prevent burning. Remove from oven. Mix in wheat germ, almonds, seeds, raisins, pineapple, and apples. Serve with fresh fruit, milk or juice.

* * *

The following recipe is by Bruce Jacobs, executive chef for Bristol Farms Food Stores in Southern California.

BRUNCH QUESADILLAS


(Makes 2 servings)

2 8-inch flour tortillas

4 ounces smoked salmon

1/4 cup hothouse cucumbers, thinly sliced with peel intact

1/4 cup Bermuda onions, thinly sliced

2 ounces Cambozola cheese, sliced (blue veined Brie)

2 tablespoons green onions, minced

1 tablespoon melted butter

Prepare barbecue. Place half of cheese on each half of tortilla, top with salmon, cucumber, onions. Fold over empty half of tortilla to enclose filling. Brush with melted butter; place quesadilla, oiled side down, on grill. Cook 60 seconds, butter un-cooked side, and then flip over. Cook 30 seconds or until cheese melts.

* * *

Adapted from The Well Fed Backpacker by June Fleming, Vintage Books, 1986.

MEXICAN MOCHA

(Makes 4 servings)

1-1/2 cups grated Mexican chocolate

1-1/3 cups nonfat milk powder

1/4 cup instant coffee powder

1/3 cup brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1 tablespoon powdered, dried orange peel

Mix ingredients together at home. At camp, Use 1/3-cup mix to 1 cup hot water.

* * *

The following recipe is by Bruce Jacobs, executive chef for Bristol Farms Food Stores in Southern California.


FOCACCIA BREAD WITH MOZZARELLA AND SUN-DRIED TOMATOES

(Makes 2 servings)

1 loaf focaccia or country bread

1 pound white mozzarella cheese, sliced 1/8” thick

8 ounces sun-dried tomatoes in olive oil, drained

1/2 cup fresh basil leaves

1/2 cup fresh oregano leaves

Fruity olive oil as needed

Slice bread into thick pieces. Place 2 slices on a plate. Top bread with 4 sun dried tomatoes, 2 slices mozzarella, basil and oregano leaves. Drizzle with olive oil, if desired.

* * *

The following recipe is by Bruce Jacobs, executive chef for Bristol Farms Food Stores in Southern California.

VEGETARIAN POCKET BREAD SANDWICHES

(Makes 2 servings)

2 tablespoons sun dried tomatoes in olive oil, drained

1/3 cup sweet onions, sliced

1/3 cup zucchini, sliced lengthwise

1/3 cup yellow squash, sliced lengthwise

1/3 cup Japanese eggplant, thinly sliced lengthwise

1 tablespoon fresh basil, chopped

1 tablespoon Italian parsley, chopped

4 pieces pita bread

2 ounces Swiss cheese, sliced

1 tablespoon olive oil
Sauté vegetables in olive oil until light golden brown. Add herbs. Place mixture in pita bread. Top with cheese. Brush with olive oil, place pita oiled side down on grill.

Cook 60 seconds, drizzle oil over un-cooked side, flip over. Cook 30 seconds or until cheese melts.

Alternatively, use raw vegetables mixed with olive oil and melted cheese. Or sauté original vegetables and bring them along in hard plastic container.

* * *

The following recipe is by Bruce Jacobs, executive chef for Bristol Farms Food Stores in Southern California.

SUMMER GARDEN GAZPACHO SOUP

(Makes 2 servings)

1-1/2 pounds fresh tomatoes, coarsely chopped

1-1/2 cups cold water

1 cucumber, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 Maui onion, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 red pepper, coarsely chopped

3 ounces French bread, crust trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces

1/3 cup white wine

3 tablespoons tomato paste

1-1/2 tablespoons sherry wine vinegar

1 tablespoon garlic, minced

1 tablespoon fresh basil, minced

1 tablespoon Italian parsley, minced

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

A few dashes of Tabasco (optional)

CONDIMENTS

1/4 cup Maui onions, diced

1/4 cup hothouse cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced

1/4 cup diced yellow pepper

1 package croutons

Make soup the day before leaving. Pack in large thermos. Cut condiments at campsite right before serving.

Puree first 12 ingredients in blender in batches. Strain through sieve, pressing on solids with back of spoon. Season with salt and pepper. Ladle soup into bowls and pass the condiments.

* * *

The following recipe is by Bruce Jacobs, executive chef for Bristol Farms Food Stores in Southern California.
COWBOY STEAK WITH JACK DANIEL'S SAUCE

(Makes 2 servings)

2 12-ounce Porterhouse steaks cut 1/2-inch thick

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons fresh rosemary, minced

2 tablespoons fresh thyme, minced

11/2 tablespoons whole black peppercorns

2 teaspoons grated lemon zest

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

2 tablespoons butter

1/2 Maui onion, sliced thin

1 large Portobello mushroom, diced

1/2 tablespoon garlic, crushed

1/4 cup Jack Daniel's

1/2 cup prepared brown sauce (i.e. Heinz Home-style)

2 tablespoons green onions

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Marinate steak and make the sauce the day before you leave. The sauce should be reheated just before serving.

For marinade: Combine lemon juice, olive oil, rosemary, thyme, black pepper, lemon zest and salt in food processor. Combine to form a paste. Rub steaks with marinade; place in Ziploc bag. Marinate overnight.

For sauce: Melt butter in large sauté pan; add onions, mushrooms and garlic. Sauté 5 to 7 minutes, until tender. Remove pan from heat, add Jack Daniel's. Return to heat and flame. Mix in brown sauce. Heat through; stir in green onions, salt and pepper.

At camp: Grill steak over open flame until desired doneness, reheat sauce and pour over meat.

* * *

The following recipe is by Bruce Jacobs, executive chef for Bristol Farms Food Stores in Southern California.


POTATO POCKETS

(Makes 2 servings)

1/3 cup canola oil

2 tablespoons garlic, minced

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon fresh minced rosemary

1 tablespoon fresh minced Italian parsley

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon black pepper

1 pound new potatoes, sliced 1/2-inch thick

1 red onion, sliced 1/2-inch thick

Nonstick vegetable spray

In medium bowl, whisk together oil, garlic, mustard, rosemary, parsley, salt and pepper. Add potatoes and onions; toss to coat. Set 4 sheets of 9 inch by 12 inch heavy duty foil on work surface. Spray foil with vegetable spray. Divide vegetables among foil sheets. Fold into square pockets. Place pockets on grill; cook approximately 25 minutes or until tender. Use care when opening pockets.

* * *

The following recipe is by Bruce Jacobs, executive chef for Bristol Farms Food Stores in Southern California.

5 SPICE SALMON SALAD WITH MANGO PEANUT DRESSING

(Makes 2 servings)

5 SPICE RUB

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

1/2 tablespoon anise seeds

1 tablespoon cumin seeds

1/2 tablespoons pepper corns

1/2 teaspoon pepper corns

1-1/2 tablespoons kosher salt

Make dry rub and dressing the day before leaving. Grill salmon and assemble salad at campsite. Or grill salmon at home and put together salad at campsite. If you don't want to make salad dressing, use bottled Asian or Raspberry Dressing.

In medium skillet toast seeds until aromatic. Let cool, grind all spices in mortar and pestle or coffee grinder. Do not over grind. This should not be a powder.

DRESSING

1/2 cup prepared mango chutney (i.e. Major Grey's)

1/2 cup orange juice

1 tablespoon lime juice

1 chipotle pepper (canned in adobo sauce) or

1 fresh jalapeno chili, seeded and minced

2 tablespoons chunky peanut butter

1/2 tablespoon garlic, minced

1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar

1/2 tablespoon madras curry powder

1/2 cup peanut oil

1 teaspoons kosher salt

1/2 tablespoon green onions, minced

1 tablespoon fresh cilantro, minced

Put first 8 ingredients into a blender or food processor. With motor running, slowly add peanut oil to emulsify. Pour into bottle. Add salt, onions and cilantro.

SALAD

1 bag (8 ounces) musclun gourmet salad mix or other greens

1 pound skinless, boneless salmon filet, cut into four 4- ounce pieces

3 ounces red onion, sliced thin

4 ounces red peppers, julienne

2 ounces salted cashews

Rub salmon with 5-spice rub. Cook over medium fire for approximately 2 minutes per side or until just cooked through. Divide greens among 4 plates, place salmon on greens. Top with onions, peppers, and cashews. Drizzle dressing on top.

* * *

Adapted from the
Tassajara Bread Book, Shambala Publishing Co., 1970.

RAW FRUIT CAROB-SESAME TREATS

(Makes 2 dozen)

1 cup sesame seeds

2 cups pitted dates

1 cup seedless raisins

1 cup carob powder or as needed

1/2 cup chopped walnuts

1/2 cup roasted sesame seeds

In grinder or food processor, grind together sesame seeds, dates, raisins, and walnuts. Add as much carob powder as mixture will hold. Roll into balls. Roll in roasted sesame seeds.

* * *

From Dorothy Comins.

DOROTHY COMINS' TURKEY JERKY

(Makes 2 servings)

2 pounds turkey breast

1/4 cup soy sauce

3 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons white wine

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon dried ginger

1/4 to 3/4 cup olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste
Put turkey breast in freezer, slice into pieces 1/2 inch thick. Pour marinade over strips, stir to coat well, cover, and marinate for 6 to 12 hours in refrigerator. Stir occasionally to distribute flavors. Drain; place non-overlapping slices on tray or cookie sheet. Put in oven at lowest possible temperature, 150 to 200. Leave door open; cook 8 to 12 hours until hard but not brittle.








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