This week on Cooking with Chef Johnny Vee guest chef Jacob Hilbert of A La Mesa restaurant makes latkes three ways — as a canapé, topped with crème fraîche and American caviar; a side dish, topped with crème fraîche and spiced, roasted apples; and a main course, topped with pan-roasted salmon and a bright pink beet-crème fraîche sauce.

"I wanted to show how easy it is to manipulate basic ingredients (in this case, latkes and crème fraîche)," Hilbert said, "to create a number of different dishes."

Hilbert credits his great-grandmother Goldberg and an aunt for the techniques to which he has added his own professional twist.

The recipe for roasted apples — which stands in for the more usual applesauce — was basically her recipe, Hilbert said. "She would fry the sugar in butter and brandy," he said, "so that it candied." The chef just added some juniper berries and a topping of chopped fresh chives, to ramp up the flavors of great-grandma's well-textured combination.

Two other techniques make Hilbert's latkes stand out: He brines the grated potatoes and onions in a solution of salt and water for 10 minutes to "even out the salinity" and to keep the potatoes from turning brown while they are waiting to be cooked. And he uses no binders or fillers in his latkes — no eggs or flour — which makes it even more important not to keep the grated spuds in the salt-water solution for longer than the recommended time. Too much soaking and you'll wash away the potato starch that naturally binds the latkes together, he said.

For the latkes, Hilbert recommends using all Russet potatoes (which are starchy) or a mix of Russets and Yukon golds (which are creamier). Although crème fraîche is available in most markets these days, Hilbert suggest making your own for a better texture and that extra bit of tang.

Finally, so you can crisp the potato cakes without burning them, the chef suggest using an oil that won't smoke until it reaches a high temperature — it should shimmer, not smoke, when it is hot enough to use. Olive oil is not a good choice, Hilbert says, because it smokes at a lower temperature and adds flavor that you don't want to the latkes.

To watch Hilbert and chef Johnny Vee make the latkes and their various toppings, log onto www.etastesantafe.com.

BASIC LATKES

2 cups potato, shredded on a box grater
1/2 cup onion, shredded on a box grater
1 quart water
1/4 cup kosher salt
Squeeze of fresh lemon
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Neutral-flavored high smoke-point oil for frying (such as grapeseed, peanut, vegetable)
Freshly grated horseradish root, to taste, for latkes that will be served with salmon (optional)

Add salt to water in medium bowl, squeeze in the lemon juice, then add grated potato and onion. Allow to soak for about 10 minutes. Heat oil in heavy skillet until shimmering.

Take a handful of potato-onion mixture and squeeze out as much water as possible, forming small, medium or large patties. Season with salt and pepper and drop immediately into hot oil, standing back to avoid splatters. Sauté until brown and crisp on each side. Don't overcrowd the skillet.

Drain on paper towels and keep warm in oven until all are ready to top and serve.

HOMEMADE CREME FRAÎCHE

1 quart heavy cream
1 cup buttermilk
1 tablespoon vinegar

Combine all ingredients in small bowl and whisk to blend. Cover and leave out at room temperature for 24 to 36 hours, until soured. Refrigerate.

BEET-CREME FRAÎCHE

1/3 cup beets (canned are fine)
1 cup crème fraîche

Purée beets with crème fraîche and refrigerate until ready to use.

ROASTED APPLES

6-8 apples (a blend of Granny Smiths, golden delicious, honey crisp, pink lady, etc.)
Ground cinnamon
Ground nutmeg
Juniper berries, crushed with a mallet (optional)
1 stick unsalted butter
Brandy

Peel and core apples and cut into wedges. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Put butter in baking dish and put into oven until melted. Add apples to butter and toss with cinnamon, nutmeg and crushed juniper berries (if using). Pour in enough brandy to bring the buttery liquid half-way up the apples.

Bake, stirring occasionally, until apples are well-caramelized and tender. Remove from oven and set aside at room temperature until ready to assemble latkes.

PAN-ROASTED SALMON

1 salmon fillet per person
Kosher salt and freshly cracked pepper
Freshly grated lemon zest (or thin strips of preserved lemon rind if available)
Fresh dill, roughly chopped
High smoke point oil for searing
Large pat unsalted butter for finishing

Remove skin from bottom of salmon filets. Press lemon and dill onto top side of the salmon, then sprinkle lightly with kosher salt and cracked pepper.

Heat oil in heavy skillet over high heat. Add salmon, lemon-and-dill side down and sear. Turn heat down to medium and turn salmon over. Add butter to pan (and some additional dill) and baste salmon until just cooked through.

TO ASSEMBLE AND SERVE THE LATKES

For the canapés:
2-4 small latkes per person
Crème fraîche
1 jar American caviar (black paddlefish roe)
Minced fresh tarragon (optional)
Thin slices of lemon peel or preserved lemon peel (optional)
For the side dish:
2 medium latkes per person
Crème fraîche
Roasted apples
Fresh chives, roughly chopped
For the main course:
1 large or 2 medium latkes per person
1 roasted salmon filet per person
Beet-crème fraîche
Fresh dill sprigs

Assemble dishes by putting first latkes on the plate, then a dollop of crème fraîche, then a heaping spoonful or American caviar (for the canapés) or roasted apples (for the side dish). Garnish the caviar with lemon and tarragon and the apples with fresh chives.

For the main course, lay the latkes on each plate, top with a serving of salmon and drizzle beet-creme fraîche heavily over the salmon. Garnish with fresh dill sprigs.