I have a complicated relationship with ginger — the knobby rootlike spice that is a mainstay of Asian recipes.

Savory foods with fresh ginger seem to leave an unpleasant sensation in my mouth, but I adore sweet gingery foods such as gingerbread and gingersnaps. I take a daily ginger supplement to promote stomach health, but I once took concentrated ginger as a preventative for motion sickness (reputed to be the British Navy's remedy of choice) only to suffer one of my worst bouts with the cursed condition. Chinese cooks, who use ginger in virtually everything, would likely say ginger is the yang to my yin — an opposing force that is rooted to me and with which I sometimes achieve harmonious balance.

For most people, though, balance is achieved with ginger more frequently: folklore and scientific studies have shown that the spice aids digestion, relieves nausea and reduces the pain of arthritis. It's no coincidence that mothers give their sick children ginger ale to calm a queasy stomach.

As a Western culinary spice, however, fresh ginger is a relatively new phenomenon. Ground ginger was the seldom-opened bottle in my family's spice rack. Fresh ginger, which was only available in Asian markets, is now a staple in the produce section of most grocery stores. The sweet, peppery flavor and spicy aroma of fresh ginger has definitely caught on, ushering in a new popularity of products that range from ginger juice to ginger that is pickled, candied and packed in syrup.


Ginger is a rhizome — a horizontal-growing underground stem from which new plants and roots develop.

The flavor is locked in the moisture within the rhizome, so it is important to select fresh ginger that isn't shriveled or dried out. Look for firm pieces with smooth skin. Ginger that is really fresh — also known as "young" — has paper-thin skin that doesn't need to be peeled and yields plenty of fragrant juice. If you can only find thick-skinned ginger, peel the skin with a vegetable peeler and gauge the amount of moisture to determine if the quantity of ginger called for in the recipe should be adjusted; dry, stringy ginger may require doubling to achieve the desired flavor.

Fresh ginger should last about three weeks in the refrigerator if stored properly to maintain its moisture. I wrap mine in a small piece of brown paper bag, and then seal it in a plastic sandwich bag. The paper absorbs the moisture, while the plastic traps the humidity. If a little mold forms on the ginger, just cut it away and use the part that hasn't become moldy. Replace the brown paper if it becomes too wet.

Ginger can also be preserved. One method is to place peeled ginger in a jar with just enough dry sherry to cover. When ready to use it, follow your recipe's cooking instructions as though the ginger were fresh.

Ginger can be frozen, but it loses flavor; use more defrosted ginger than you would if using fresh.

Recipes often call for finely grated or thinly sliced ginger. Use the finest setting on your grater to yield the most juice. Prepared in this way, ginger can be added to soups, stir-fries and sauces.


Fried ginger turns an ordinary salad into a masterpiece. To fry, shred ginger using the largest setting on your grater so that long strands are formed. Fry the strands in hot vegetable oil for about 3 minutes or until golden brown and crisp. Drain on paper and cool. Fried ginger tastes especially good when paired with something slightly sweet, such as meat with barbecue sauce.

For zesty salad vinaigrette, add 1 tablespoon of freshly grated ginger to 2 tablespoons of balsamic vinegar and 1/3 cup canola oil. Add 1/2 teaspoon sugar — or more if desired — and mix well.

A product frequently used in Asian cooking is pickled ginger. I use pickled ginger as a condiment to perk up Asian noodle dishes. A favorite recipe calls for cooked soba noodles that are topped with a mixture of 1 teaspoon sesame oil, 1 teaspoon vegetable oil, 2 tablespoons lime juice, 1 teaspoon wasabi paste, 1/4 cup pickled ginger and a handful of snipped chives.

Candied and crystallized gingers are pieces that have been cooked and coated in sugar. The chewy treat can be addictive when eaten right out of the bag, but I prefer it in recipes that call for dried fruit, using it in place of raisins or dates in granola or pancakes.

Use powdered ginger when you want subtle flavor or to round out other spices such as cinnamon, cloves, allspice and nutmeg. This is the classic spice combination used in pumpkin pie.

This holiday season I look forward to gingerbread cookies and fruitcake with candied ginger. And for Thanksgiving, I will be serving pumpkin cheesecake, spiced with fresh and candied ginger.

PUMPKIN-GINGER CHEESECAKE
(Serves 8)

1/2 pound gingersnap cookies
1-1/2 cups toasted sliced almonds (divided use)
10 tablespoons butter (divided use)
1/3 cup + 2 tablespoons brown sugar (divided use)
3/4 cup flour (divided use)
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup crystallized ginger
2 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese
1 cup mashed pumpkin (about half of a 15-ounce can)
1-1/2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger
1/2 cup granulated sugar
4 eggs

Make the crust: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grind cookies in food processor until finely ground. Combine 1 cup of crumbs with 1 cup toasted almond slices, 2 tablespoons brown sugar, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 cup flour. Mix well, slightly breaking up almond slices. Melt 6 tablespoons butter, pour over crumb mixture, and combine until everything is well-moistened.

Line the bottom of an 8-inch spring-form pan with aluminum foil. Press crumb mixture into the bottom and about 1 inch up sides of the pan. Bake until set, about 7 to 10 minutes. Remove from oven and reduce temperature to 325 degrees.

Make the filling: Mix the cream cheese, pumpkin, grated ginger and granulated sugar until creamy using an electric mixer or food processor. Add the eggs and blend until smooth. Pour filling into crust. Bake at 325 degrees for about 20 minutes or until top appears slightly dry.

Make the topping: Meanwhile, mix remaining 1/2 cup ginger-snap crumbs with remaining 1/2 cup flour, 1/2 cup almonds, 1/3 cup brown sugar and the crystallized ginger. Mix well. Add the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter and mix using your fingers to break up the butter until mixture is crumbly.

Spread topping evenly over cheesecake, return to oven and continue to bake at 325 degrees for an additional 20 to 30 minutes, until center jiggles only slightly when moved. Cool and refrigerate overnight to set.

Finish the cheesecake: Run a small knife around the edge of the pan to loosen cheesecake. Release pan sides, cut into wedges and serve.